“One of the best articles I’ve seen said it all in the title: ‘Just say thank you.'” – Jeff Kelly

“Only God is perfect. Master craftsmen come awfully close but realize the futility of that pursuit. Certain cultures actually make flaws on purpose. That tradition is more apparent In ornate buildings like Art Deco and Islam, but you can see it in Indian rugs, too. And then there are, with varying degrees of success, the known and unknown imperfectionists. I rarely keep anything I make since I would have to look at those imperfections all the time. Somehow it is easier to accept someone else’s flaw then one’s own. I vote for keeping quiet. Those imperfections are, after all, what makes the end product ‘unique.'” – Randy Gleason

“I can’t agree with you more on this. When I am looking at the finished product, I look with such critical eyes. I see a gap that’s larger than I would like, I see where a little chip blew out when I was cutting it, whatever. Fortunately, I have the world’s greatest critic. I show it to my wife, she oohs and ahs over it, tells me how wonderful it is and doesn’t see those itsy (to me) flaws at all. She reminds me of the big picture. It’s the overall impression that’s important!” – Don Gwinn<

“Don’t feel too bad. Paul Sellers was pointing out a flaw in a PROTOTYPE this morning.” – Bob Leistner

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Made from a piece of wood 3/4″ x 2″ x 6″, the only tools you need are a drill press, band saw and sander. But there is a twist: we used a 1-1⁄4″-dia. dish-carving router bit in the drill press to bore the scoop recess. It creates curved edges around the bottom of the scoop bowl.

After the bowl has been bored, move over to your band saw or scroll saw. Narrow the thickness of the stock in the clip area down to about 1/4″ — it does not have to be exact. A long slice down the back comes first (we used a fence as a guide), then back out of the cut, move the fence over and, with the blank on one edge, make a short cut to remove the material.

Next, cut the long slot in the clip. It should be about 1/8″ wide and will take a couple of passes to achieve. When that’s done, you’re ready to shape the outside of the scoop. The final shape is up to you; it can be straightforward or a bit fanciful, as you wish.

We have provided a downloadable PDF to give you the hole and slot placements, but the outside shape is for you to determine. A bit of sanding, and the project is done. You can apply a finish like shellac or let the oils in the coffee seal the wood. Then pour yourself a cup of Joe!

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But take heart: there’s a simple solution for both the tabletop and legs. Timber-Link pine and maple slabs, available from Rockler, come in both live edge and straightedged pieces that are ready to assemble and finish right out of the package.

Pre-drilled pocket screw holes make the top as easy to build as applying glue and screwing the slab sections together. The number of pieces you buy determines the top’s width, and you can cut it to any length you prefer.

Arrange the 2″-thick live edge and center sections for a pleasing grain pattern — there will be some variation, especially if you order online and can’t handpick the pieces.

Mark the boards order, then spread glue on their mating edges and assemble with 2-1/2″ pocket screws. When the joints dry, remove the edge bark with a scraper, drawknife or chisel and sand the surfaces up to 180-grit.

Then apply your choice of finish. I used wipe-on urethane for my table.

Rockler offers several styles and sizes of painted or unpainted welded-steel leg sets that simply fasten to your new tabletop with lag screws. Then voilà, you’re done. There’s no faster way to build a custom on-trend table than this!

Hard-to-Find Hardware:

Pine Timber-Link Slab, Edge Piece, 6′ Long x 2″ Thick x 5-8″ Wide (2) #63608
Pine Timber-Link Slab, Center Piece, 6′ Long x 2″ Thick x 8″ Wide (2) #64197
28″ H V-Shaped Welded Steel Table Leg Set, Black (1) #66014

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Both methods are easy to learn and far less demanding than traditional approaches. The first produces segmented bowls with solid sides; the second creates open segmentation.

Segmentation with Solid Sides

My method for creating this type of bowl eliminates the need to cut many small pieces at precise angles. Instead, it relies on stack cutting, a standard scroll saw technique, to create the blank.

The basics are simple: two contrasting blanks, typically between 1/4″ and 1/2″ thick, are attached with double-sided tape. A pattern, consisting of a circle divided into a designated number of segments, is attached; the circumference and segments are then cut to shape.

Once cut and numbered, alternate segments from each set are exchanged to form two multi-colored circles. Because all pieces are stack cut, deviations in any piece are compensated for by complementary deviations in the adjacent pieces.

The segments are glued at their edges to form two circles and sanded lightly once the glue has set. They are then glued together to form the blank.

The blank can then be cut in the same way as any scrolled bowl, or rings cut from it can be used as decorative elements in a multi-blank project.

Open Segmentation

It was challenging to design a blank that would look like open segmentation when cut into rings, but the solution turned out to be quite simple. The blank is constructed from wedges cut from a circle, then glued evenly around a thin substrate.

A pattern is attached to the substrate side and the rings are cut at predetermined angles. The cutting process creates rings with a regular pattern of slices and spaces.

Depending on size and purpose, the bowl can be cut so that the wall thickness remains uniform throughout, or cut so that the wall thickness increases slightly with each successive ring.

Walls of even thickness are ideal for smaller bowls, especially those that are primarily decorative, while those with increasing wall thickness have a greater gluing surface — a consideration for larger bowls or those intended for regular use.

Sanding of an open segmented bowl is standard, with two notable exceptions. First, care must be taken to avoid catching the sander on the edges of the segments; the slits at the bottom of the round inflatable sander are especially vulnerable. For this reason, I use the smaller of the two inflatable sanders: the openings in their abrasives resist snagging better.

Second, the center section of the blank, usually used as the base, has wedges on its underside. These must be sanded off for the piece to be used. If this is not feasible, cut a new base from the same wood as the substrate.

Variations to Explore

This versatile method for open segmentation can be used for rounded square and wavy bowls as easily as for round ones. With a slight pattern adaptation, it can even be used to make oval bowls whose segments remain evenly sized all around the circumference.

Once you’ve mastered the process for making a basic scrolled bowl, it’s an easy transition to variations that no one will believe were made with a scroll saw.

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Whether you’re dishing devilishly spicy cheese dip or some steaming witches brew, this two-tone Jack-O’-Lantern Trivet will help keep hot serving ware from damaging other surfaces. It’s made of two contrasting layers of wood. The 1/4-in.-thick top layer with routed details forms the trivet face. A neutral-colored, blonde hardwood such as beech, maple or birch works well for this layer—especially if you dye it orange as we do here. A 1/2-in.-thick bottom lamination creates a sturdy base while it accentuates the cutout features. Select a dark hardwood such as walnut for this layer. Here’s how to make the trivet.

Step 1: Download and print out a copy of the PDF Jack-O’-Lantern Trivet template attached to this article.

Step 2: Prepare two wood blanks for the project, planing them both to the correct thickness. Select blanks that are about the same size as the template sheet to give you plenty of room to work when routing the face details. You’ll want to keep the base of the router stable as you work.

Step 3: Affix the paper template to your 1/4-in.-thick top blank with spray mount adhesive. Use a J-roller or a soft cloth to press the paper firmly into place. (see Photo 1).

Step 4: There are two machining options for cutting out the eyes, nose, mouth and eyebrows of the Jack-O’-Lantern: a scroll saw or a router. For this project, we’ll be using Dremel’s Trio tool, which looks like a jigsaw but functions like a trim router. If you use the Trio or a comparable trim router, mount your template blank to a piece of scrap MDF or other sheet material with pieces of double-sided tape to help minimize tearout on the bottom face. Clamp the backup board to your workbench.

Step 5: Install a 1/4-in. straight bit in your Trio or trim router, and set the cutting depth to 5/16 in. Start the tool, and slowly plunge the bit down into the middle of the first cutout area with the edge of the base held firmly against the template. Rout away the waste carefully, leaving a little waste next to the template layout lines (see Photo 2). “Rough out” the eyes, nose and mouth now.

Step 6: Switch to 1/8-in.-diameter straight or spiral bit, and set the cutting depth to 5/16 in. again. Clean away the rest of the waste from the cutout areas, working up to the layout lines. Once these areas are defined, raise the bit so it’s only cutting about 3/16 in. into the wood and rout the eyebrows. Work slowly and carefully to keep these deep cuts on course. When those are finished, raise the bit to 1/8 in., and rout the pumpkin’s shallow groove details (see Photo 3).

Step 7: Spread a thin layer of glue on the back of the template blank, stopping the glue short of the cutout areas. Glue and clamp the template to the bottom walnut lamination. Use a piece of scrap sheet stock to act as a caul for pressing the template down uniformly (see Photo 4).

Step 8: When the glue cures, unclamp the assembly and cut out the trivet on your band saw or scroll saw (see Photo 5).

Step 9: Remove the template pattern and sand the trivet’s face smooth. One easy way to do this is to soak the surface with mineral spirits, which will soften the adhesive. Peel the paper off, and wipe it with more solvent to remove any residual glue.

Step 10: Sand the project edges smooth. The Dremel Trio makes this task easier, because it comes with a small sanding drum accessory and sanding sleeves (see Photo 6). Or, you could smooth the broader curves on a disc sander, then switch to sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to finish the inside curves next to the trivet’s stem.

Step 11: Ease the outside edges of the trivet with a 1/8-in. roundover bit in your Trio or trim router (see Photo 7). Be especially careful when routing the edges along the stem to keep the tool on solid footing. You may want to round over the stem with a file if you are unsure of your routing skills. Sand the edges smooth, as well as the entire project, up through the grits to 180.

Step 12: You could leave your Jack-O’-Lantern in the natural wood tones and skip right to a topcoat, but orange aniline dye makes a fitting and colorful end to this project. Mix the dye powder with hot, distilled water, according to the instructions on the dye container. While it dissolves, wipe your trivet down with distilled water to raise the wood grain. When it dries, sand off the raised grain lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. This step will prevent the wood grain from raising again.

Step 13: Wear gloves to apply the dye, and wipe it liberally all over the project (see Photo 8). Let it soak in for a minute or two, and blot away the excess with a dry cloth. Let the dye dry thoroughly.

Step 14: Topcoat your trivet with a heat-resistant finish, such as wipe-on or thinned oil-based polyurethane. Avoid lacquer or shellac, as they don’t fare well when subjected to high heat.

When the varnish cures, your trivet is ready for a Halloween party or holiday display. Apply felt tabs to the back face, if you wish, to keep it from scratching furniture surfaces.

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