I solved the problem by installing a 48″ length of Rockler T-Track on the side of my bench, and I’ve equipped it with a pair of hold-down clamps that tighten with star knobs. Now, edge clamping is as easy as can be, and the hold-down clamps are plenty strong to keep the stock from shifting as I work on it.

-Alan Fletcher
Mahtomedi, Minnesota

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– John Wetlaufer, Sr.
Mechanicsville, Virginia

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Making a clock is a fun project that doesn’t necessarily require a lot of tools. You can make the clock face out of just about any piece of lumber. All it needs is a hole for the clock mechanism to fit through. You can also be as creative as you like with the clock face. Keep it simple and clean with a clear finish and no numbers. Or enhance it with applied numbers or techniques such as carving, painting or woodburning.

Step 1: Cut a 3/4″-thick x 12″ x 12″ piece of plywood, or glue up a solid panel for the clock face. We used a circle-cutting jig and a compact plunge router for the next step. Mount the jig’s base to the center of the workpiece. Attach the circle-cutting jig arm to the base of the router, and install a straight bit in the collet. Position the pivot point on the jig to cut a 10-1⁄2″-dia. circle. Now set the router to a 1/4″-deep cut, and rout the circle in three passes, lowering the bit depth by 1/4″ after each pass.

Step 2: Drill a 5/16″-dia. hole through the center of the clock face to accommodate the clock movement shaft.

Step 3: Set up the Interlock Signmaker’s Templates to rout the twelve, three, six and nine o’clock numbers one at a time. Connect an extra spacer on each side of the numbers to provide additional support for the router base.

Position the template so that the outside edge of the number is 1/2″ in from the edge of the clock face. Secure the templates with double-sided tape under the templates or painter’s tape over the edges of the templates.

Step 4: The six and nine require two templates to complete the shapes and must be cut in two passes. The templates for these numbers are lettered A and B.

Step 5: Next, apply the finish of your choice. We used a low-nap roller to apply paint to the surface and left the routed numbers natural.

We made a second clock out of bamboo plywood and brush-painted only the letters. We then applied two coats of satin water-based poly to all surfaces.

Step 6: The final step is to install the Mini Quartz Clock Movement clock mechanism and hands as instructed on the product packaging. The Straight Clock Hands we used were black, so we painted both hands, the washer and the nut to complement each clock. Insert the movement’s stem through the center hole from the back, secure it with the washer and nut and attach the hands to it.

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Made from a piece of wood 3/4″ x 2″ x 6″, the only tools you need are a drill press, band saw and sander. But there is a twist: we used a 1-1⁄4″-dia. dish-carving router bit in the drill press to bore the scoop recess. It creates curved edges around the bottom of the scoop bowl.

After the bowl has been bored, move over to your band saw or scroll saw. Narrow the thickness of the stock in the clip area down to about 1/4″ — it does not have to be exact. A long slice down the back comes first (we used a fence as a guide), then back out of the cut, move the fence over and, with the blank on one edge, make a short cut to remove the material.

Next, cut the long slot in the clip. It should be about 1/8″ wide and will take a couple of passes to achieve. When that’s done, you’re ready to shape the outside of the scoop. The final shape is up to you; it can be straightforward or a bit fanciful, as you wish.

We have provided a downloadable PDF to give you the hole and slot placements, but the outside shape is for you to determine. A bit of sanding, and the project is done. You can apply a finish like shellac or let the oils in the coffee seal the wood. Then pour yourself a cup of Joe!

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Start by cutting three sections of a 2″ to 3″-dia. branch to rough length; we made ours 3″, 5″ and 7″ long.

Select a Forstner bit slightly larger than the candles’ diameter. Tea candles, used here, are typically 1-1⁄2″ in diameter, so we chose a 1-5⁄8″-dia. Forstner bit.

Bore a 2″-deep, centered hole into the end of each branch at the drill press with it securely held in place. We clamped our branch sections in a heavy vise clamped to the drill press table and lined its metal jaws with scrap wood.

Set the drill press speed appropriately and use moderate feed pressure when drilling, clearing the accumulating chips frequently by raising the chuck.

Now secure each branch horizontally in a wood screw clamp so you can safely angle-cut its top end at the band saw. The degree of the angle is up to you, but leave the holes deep enough at the bottom to hide the metal candle holders.

Set the branches together attractively and fix them into a group with dabs of hot-melt glue. Apply the glue sparingly and in spots where it will be hidden.

Next, prepare a centerpiece base from a piece of attractive scrap wood. Set the candle holder cluster onto it, and draw a layout line all around the branches about 1″ larger than their perimeter. Cut out the base. Center the candleholders on it, and drive a long countersunk screw up through each to secure it.

Wrap the centerpiece with a few loops of coarse rope to add a dash of texture to the project. We adhered the rope to itself and to the candleholders with thick CA glue. Apply finish to the base, then drop a candle into each hole to enjoy this bit of rustic ambiance!

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Given the popularity of projects made from slab lumber, the number of scraps in our shops with live edges are becoming more numerous. You could always slice off the waney edge, but that organic shape is all the rage right now, so keep it and use it in a gift.

Our example here is almost 2″ thick, but slimmer stock will suffice. Much thinner than 3/4″ may be too thin. We cut one of the blank’s edges flat and squared up both ends to more dramatically show off the waney, live edge.

After cutting the ends square to one another, there are only a couple more steps to completing the serving board. First, form finger recesses on the bottom edge of the board. These will allow you to easily pick up the board from a flat surface. Then comes sanding. Sand the show faces up to at least 320-grit. With that done, cut out four small feet.

Ours are 3/8″ x 1/2″ x 1″ … made of maple. Glue them to the bottom of the serving tray. These visually lift the board from flat surfaces, which adds to the “machined” impression of the waney edged board.

Lastly, you need to select and apply the finish. We recommend either butcher block oil (a refined mineral oil) or something like walnut oil. Both are food safe, but both will need to be refreshed every so often.

Now slice some cheese, break out the crackers and enjoy!

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