Combined with general improvements in the tools themselves (such as efficient brushless motors), batteries have evolved to a new level of excellence. Tools run longer. Battery shelf life is extended. Amp/hour ratings are going up without increasing battery weight and size.

Small touches and features are continually being added to newer batteries, making them more useful than ever. Most Li-ion batteries come with “fuel gauges” now, for example. Since Li-ion batteries are designed to operate at full power to a specific cutoff point, there’s none of the winding down that served as a warning with old NiCad tools. A visual gauge that shows how much charge is left saves a lot of time and hassle.

Other useful additions include Bluetooth connectivity with a host of functions, from monitoring to theft control. Products like cordless work lights and heated work gear — once considered impractical — are now available, taking advantage of longer battery runtimes. Thanks to built-in cooling techniques, batteries can be charged faster, too.

One user-favorite feature, the built-in USB charging port popping up on batteries, doesn’t have anything to do
with woodworking at all. The woodworking consumer, however, has been responsible for driving tool companies to make some specific improvements.

“For manufacturers, the [driving force] is providing power and runtime while managing heat,” says Theron Sherrod, brand manager for Bosch cordless tools.

“Users want more power and more runtime in a package that’s light and easy to maneuver. They also want batteries that last a long time, even under constant use,” Sherrod adds.

That’s a lot of demands, but by and large the industry has delivered.

Battery Basics

Although Li-ion batteries have been around in laptops and cell phones for a long time (that’s what they were developed for), they only made their way into our tools a bit more than a decade ago. Before that, nickel-based battery chemistry was the standard. Today, however, new tools using Ni-Cad and NiMH — at least those intended for serious work — are becoming a rare species.

“Not only does Lithium-ion beat out nickel-based platforms for energy density — work capacity to weight ratio — but also shelf life,” says Festool’s Rick Bush. “Ni-Cad has fallen out of favor not only for performance, but also environmental concerns, especially in Europe.”

Although older higher-end Ni-Cad tools are still supported by a few manufacturers in the way of replacement batteries (or adapters that enable older Ni-Cad tools to use new Li-ion batteries), don’t expect to see many new tools sporting nickel-based batteries.

It’s easy to get lost in the chemical properties and capabilities of the newer batteries, but sometimes just the names can be confusing. Logic says a 12-volt tool has higher voltage than a 10.8-volt tool; likewise for 20 and 18 volts. The truth is, they’re all the same. The higher figure is the optimal or maximum charge, while the lower figure represents the nominal voltage. The only difference is the description the manufacturer chooses to use.

“Nominal and optimal voltages are different,” explains Wayne Hart of Makita. “Eighteen volts is the nominal voltage that reflects voltage under actual use; 20 volts is the optimal voltage, fully charged, but prior to use. So 18-volt and 20-volt batteries are the same. The only difference is the voltage rating used by the manufacturer. In the 10.8-volt/12-volt category, most manufacturers have chosen to go with the optimal voltage.”

Cool Characters

Public Enemy #1 for cordless tool batteries is heat. This has always been the case, but with today’s more powerful Lithium-ion batteries, paying attention to how hot a battery gets is even more important. Companies have addressed the issue a number of ways, both physically and electronically.

One of the easiest ways is to allow some breathing room inside the battery. Instead of just packing the individual cells into a battery pack, today’s batteries incorporate some air spaces between cells that help curb overheating.

Electronics internal to batteries and chargers monitor heat. (With Bluetooth-connected batteries, some tool apps can tell you, on a phone or tablet, what that actual temperature is.) Batteries get hot when discharging in-use, sometimes resulting in tool shutdown. The same is true when charging. Even early Li-ion battery chargers checked battery temperature before starting the charging cycle, allowing the battery to cool before charging kicked in.

Now, more chargers are appearing with active cooling functions that not only protect the battery from excessive heat, but also speed up the charging process, a real boon for the typically long charge times of high-amp batteries. Festool’s AIRSTREAM batteries and chargers are designed to actively cool the battery with a dedicated channel.

“The battery channel provides a directed flow of air through the cells while isolating the cells from dust, debris and moisture during the charging process,” says Festool’s Rick Bush. “The charger has a fan-boosted airflow that draws cool air through the battery and then into the charger instead of from the charger to the battery.” According to Bush, this cuts down charging times by more than 60%.

Makita battery chargers, meanwhile, have a smart-charging system where the battery and charger communicate during the charging process to actively control current, voltage and temperature. Their charger is also fan-based.

“A fan inside the charger circulates air through the battery to cool the battery during charging,” says Makita’s Wayne Hart. “This smart-charging system produces the industry’s fastest battery charge times. For example, a Makita 18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah battery will reach a full charge in only 45 minutes, while other 5.0Ah batteries in the category require over an hour to charge — that’s longer than the average lunch break!”

Users should always be aware of the conditions in which they use and store cordless batteries. You can’t lay a tool out in the sun all day or grab a battery from out of a hot car trunk and expect optimal performance — or a battery that lasts very long.

Building Beefier Batteries

Li-ion batteries of today have come a long way from Li-ion batteries of a decade ago. By tweaking chemistry and circuitry, manufacturers now offer the same voltage, but with increased cycle life, greater reliability and longer use without sacrifice of power.

“Users want more runtime, but they still need the power to drive a circular saw,” says RYOBI/RIDGID’s Jason Swanson. “With more products like miter saws being made, users need maximum power from their batteries. These new high-demand products require high-power batteries that have extended runtime.”

A key goal in increasing power was to do so without making batteries bigger and, of course, heavier. It’s a constant give-and-take battle the tool companies are winning.

“Advances in cell design — energy density — and manufacturing have allowed us to launch higher capacity batteries in the same footprint,” says DeWALT’s Ward Smith. “The 20V MAX* system launched in 2011 with the highest capacity battery at 3.0Ah. We now offer 4.0Ah and 5.0Ah in the same size and weight.”

The reverse is also true. If your needs are low-duty, a battery in the 2.0 amp/ hour range might meet your needs. If so, you’ll enjoy a battery that’s considerably lighter, is faster to charge and costs less to replace than its equivalent of 10 years ago.

Brushing Up

Some of the newest technology for batteries isn’t really for the batteries at all, but rather for the tools themselves — but still results in better battery performance. That’s why brushless motors are becoming more common.

Brushless motors don’t have carbon brushes in constant contact with the motor’s armature. Instead, with the brushes eliminated, the location of the internal magnets and the copper windings is reversed: the windings are on the outside of the motor, and the magnets on the inside, allowing for a more compact motor. Add monitoring electronics, and the result is a tool that uses battery power in a far more efficient way, runs cooler and extends the life of both battery and tool.

Makita is one of several companies now using the technology.

“Makita’s efficient BL Brushless motor is electronically controlled to optimize battery energy use for up to 50% longer runtime per battery charge than similar non-brushless tools,” says Wayne Hart. “Electronic controls efficiently use battery energy to match the changing demands of the application for increased power and speed when needed.”

Old-style brushed motors that typically run full-tilt all the time draw the same amount of power all the time. The electronics of a brushless motor can tell how the tool is being used, however, and adjust battery draw accordingly. Use a drill with a brushless motor in soft pine, for example, and it draws less current. Use the same drill on hard maple, and it pulls as much juice as it needs to complete the task.

All About the Amps

Those higher amp/hour ratings offer power options woodworkers can match to the work. If a tool is used continuously in a single session to, say, drive hundreds of drywall screws or break down a pile of stock into shorter lengths, a greater amp/hour rating has a higher capacity and keeps you working longer between recharges. The analogy product managers like to use is to liken a battery to a car’s gas tank: the bigger the tank, the farther you can go. Taking the car analogy a step further, if your driving is just a quick trip running to the grocery, you don’t need a lot of power or a big tank. On the other hand, if you’re pulling a trailer on a long trip up steep inclines, you need both. But there’s a trade-off. The higher the battery’s capacity, the bigger the battery, and the longer it takes to charge.

“So, obviously, lower-amp batteries will have the benefit of being more compact and lightweight. These batteries are ideal for drilling, fastening and overhead work,” says Andrew Lentz, senior product manager at Milwaukee Tool. “Just recently we enabled the biggest leap yet through the launch of our M18 REDLITHIUM HIGH DEMAND 9.0 battery that is built for high-demand applications.”

Lentz notes that the 9.0 amp/hour battery boasts up to five times more runtime and 35% more power than standard batteries, allowing it to power tools that rival corded versions. An example would be Milwaukee’s industry-first 18-volt full-size 10″ dual-bevel miter saw.

Making It Work

It’s not a single attribute like amp/hours that determines the overall power performance, but a combination of amp/hours and voltage called “watt/hours.”

“When talking about amp/hours, it is important to understand it in the context of voltage and watt/hours,” explains Makita’s Wayne Hart. “Watt/hours is calculated by multiplying nominal voltage and amp/hours. It is a key indicator of battery capacity and runtime.”

Using the car analogy, Hart described voltage as the size of the gas tank, amp/hours as the amount of gas in the tank, and watt/hours as the total distance you can drive in an hour (or how fast you can cover the distance). For example, the math for Makita’s 18V LXT 5.0Ah battery looks like this: 18 volts x 5.0 Ah = 90 watt/hours. That won’t give you 90 hours of use, of course — how the tool is used determines that — but the end result helps you gauge the performance of one battery over another.

Very Volty

Without doing any math at all, it’s pretty easy to compare a 12-volt tool to an 18-volt. Using a drill/driver as an example, a 12-volt version typically runs at lower speeds and may bog down under heavy load. If your intended use is light-duty — simple fastening chores or maybe furniture assembly — that’s fine, and you’ll enjoy using a lightweight tool. But for high-torque tasks like deck construction or powering hole saws all day, stepping up to an 18-volt drill/driver offers higher speed and stamina for heavier work.

Putting it simply, higher voltages offer lots of benefits for tools that spin really fast in heavy-duty use, or cut through dense material, or need to do both for an extended period of time. Almost any larger saw — circular, miter, reciprocating — used in thick and/or dense material certainly qualifies. Unless they’re intended for light-duty cutting, most of the offerings in this category come in 18-/20-volt versions.

Another benefit of higher voltages is that they have a lower current draw, which makes the power go further in-use. That means that an 18-/20-volt tool running at 2.0Ah will run longer than a 10.8-/12-volt tool running at the same amperage.

So, if 20 volts is good for heavy-duty work, wouldn’t even higher voltages be better? The answer is yes, and that’s why you’re starting to see them. Because of their intended uses outside the shop, a lot of woodworkers may not be aware they’re out there. Tools for yard work are good examples.

Very, Very Volty

Cordless hedge and string trimmers, lawnmowers, blowers and any other tool that must run continuously (and, in the case of trimmers and mowers, is used to cut continuously) lead the pack of high-voltage tools. In fact, yard tools of 36, 40 and 60 volts are becoming relatively common, with most woodworking tool manufacturers offering a line of yard maintenance tools as well. Briggs & Stratton, well known for their line of Snapper outdoor equipment, now offers an 82-volt line that includes an 18″ chainsaw.

It didn’t take long for the same manufacturers to realize that, even though the tasks are different, some woodworking tools operate with similar demands as yard tools. Several have added higher-voltage tools to their woodworking lines. How they achieve higher voltages varies.

Makita currently offers 36-volt versions of typical heavy-duty, power-hungry tools, including a vacuum, angle grinder, rotary hammer and circular, plunge-cut, reciprocating and miter saws. The surprise here is that the tools don’t use a special 36-volt battery that wouldn’t be compatible with anything else: they use the same batteries found on the company’s 18-volt line.

“Makita created a solution that lets users remain in the 18V platform and avoid having to invest in higher-voltage battery systems,” says Wayne Hart. “Makita 18V X2 (36V) LXT tools are powered by two 18-volt batteries for maximum performance and runtime. So users can expand their cordless system with 18V X2 saws, blowers, vacuums, recip saws, chainsaws and more, but without leaving the strongly preferred 18-volt battery platform.”

DeWALT has taken an entirely different direction with their 60V MAX* line by offering a battery with switchable voltage. Their FLEXVOLT batteries are really 20V MAX* batteries with a neat little trick up their electronic sleeves: Depending on the voltage requirements of the tool, the battery electronically switches from parallel wiring, which delivers 20 volts max at 6.0Ah, to 60 volts max at 3.0Ah (nominal 18 and 54 volts, respectively). So the same battery can power a 20V MAX* drill, and then be swapped over to their 60V MAX* circular saw, with the battery adjusting automatically to the tool. Drop two batteries into DeWALT’s new FLEXVOLT-based 12″ dual-bevel sliding miter saw, and the machine rocks out at 120 volts max (108 volts nominal).

Wait, what? Yeah, when it comes to comparing cordless tools to their corded counterparts, this machine makes comparisons easy. Running at 120 volts, the saw functionally is a corded saw, just no cord. In fact, if you have no need of the portable benefits of cordless with this machine, the miter saw includes an adapter so you can — coming full circle here — plug it into the shop wall.

Safety First

If you pay attention to the news, you’ve likely heard of Li-ion battery-powered “hoverboards” catching on fire. Scary stuff, but in most cases, battery fires can be attributed to batteries being used in a manner contrary to manufacturer recommendations. The same goes for battery-powered tools: the bottom line is that safe tool use is ultimately up to the one who uses it.

“All too often, I have seen users use the butt of a drill, where the battery is, as a hammer to tap something,” noted Festool’s Rick Bush. “Understandably, this is a convenient thing to do, but it does risk fracturing the case and/or rupturing battery cells.”

Beyond misuse, there’s no question that Li-ion batteries are susceptible to heat issues, which is why manufacturers put so many heat monitoring and controlling electronics into tools, batteries and chargers. Every company also stresses safety issues in their product manuals — which, unfortunately, many users ignore.

To start with, Li-ion batteries hate heat. Batteries shouldn’t be stored or used in excessively hot conditions. At best, a battery that starts out hot might simply shut down. At worst, it won’t function at peak levels, can age prematurely and can present a risk of fire. Batteries also don’t like it when foreign matter gets inside, especially conductive or corrosive liquids.

Every single manufacturer designs tools with heat and general safety in mind, tests batteries in all stages of the building process, and urges users to use the tool correctly.

“Manufacturers put a strong emphasis on users following product-use guidelines,” says Bosch’s Theron Sherrod. The trick is getting people to read the manual.

Milwaukee Tool recently surprised many in the industry by taking a proactive stance on battery safety by launching a voluntary information and education campaign. Working with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, the company has expanded the warnings and instructions of its current 18-volt M18 9.0Ah battery pack to address situations that could lead to a battery pack failure or other safety hazards.

In addition to including the expanded safety wording with the batteries themselves, Milwaukee has created a webpage with
the expanded warnings and instructions in their entirety, as well as a Frequently Asked Questions section at www.milwaukeetool.com/company/safetynotices.

What’s Ahead?

Will we see more of these high-voltage tools in the future? DeWALT’s Ward Smith promised that they plan to launch more 60-volt tools this year as part of a system expansion, while at the same time continuing to evaluate possibilities with their 120-volt system.

Meanwhile, ongoing tweaking of battery chemistries will undoubtedly show a steady improvement in Li-ion technology. Considering how much better Li-ion batteries are today than those powering cordless tools when introduced a bit more than a decade ago, it’s a safe bet the batteries of a decade from now will be even more advanced.

“Future technologies in battery chemistry, charging, discharge rates, capacities and larger and greater tool demands will continue to drive the industry,” says Rick Bush of Festool. “I would expect to see more and more cordless tools that mimic the corded tools they replace.”

The post Developments in Battery Technology appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The outside of our bowl will be turned by direct attachment to a faceplate. We will then turn the bowl around and glue the freshly turned foot on a glue block: a 1-1⁄4″-thick disk of durable wood that is of slightly larger diameter than the faceplate. The thickness assumes that 1″ screws are holding the block to the faceplate. The 1-1⁄4″ thickness allows the bowl to be well above the screw tips.

Cyanoacrylate is the best glue for this purpose because it will still bond if the wood is wet and, with the aid of a catalyst spray, dries very quickly. This allows you to turn the bowl from green wood if you wish, but there is nothing wrong with turning a bowl from dry wood if you have a suitable piece. Orienting the base of the bowl to what was the outside of the tree and the mouth to the inside achieves the strongest grain pattern.

Turn the Outside

Green wood or dry, you need to bandsaw a round billet that is slightly less in diameter than the swing of your lathe. My Colt Midi Lathe has a 14″ swing, but I sized the blank to a 9″ diameter to show that a nice bowl could be turned with a 10″ mini lathe. You could simply screw the faceplate directly to the side that will be the base of your bowl, but this method presents two problems. The first is that turning the outside of the bowl is awkward, especially for a new turner. Secondly, this doesn’t allow the banjo to be placed under the work, which means you cannot place the tool-rest for proper support of the tool.

A much better plan is to screw the faceplate to the side that will be the mouth of the bowl and turn the outside first. In this case, banjo and tool-rest placement are straightforward. Using the bowl gouge to make the S curve cuts necessary to shape the bowl and foot is intuitive.

Speeds ranging between 250 rpm (if the blank is out of round or not balanced well) to a maximum of 1,200 rpm are appropriate. In fact, going faster than 1,200 rpm is counterproductive for bowl turning. I think that it is also much easier to see the emerging shape of your bowl and create a foot that is small enough to be aesthetically correct when turning in this orientation.

Turning the foot and, in the center of it, a mortise, to receive the glue block are the last steps in turning the outside. This is a good time to sand the outside, starting with 40- to 60-grit sandpaper and working in small jumps up to 180-grit.

Scraping the mortise is a simple but precise operation done with a V-shaped scraper — what I have dubbed a chucking scraper. The details of this operation are outlined in this page’s illustration. The tenon does not have to be a tight fit with the mortise; in fact, 1/32″ of slop is better than a tight fit. You also don’t want the tenon to bottom out in the mortise, or the joint will fail. The strength is from the flat glue areas around the mortise/tenon, both of which have to be dead-flat to create a strong bond.

Once satisfied with the fit, apply medium-viscosity cyanoacrylate glue to the area around the tenon on the glue block, spray catalyst on the foot of the bowl, and bring the two together. Now bring up the tailstock and apply pressure with the tailstock quill, turning your lathe into a clamp. Wait 5 to 10 minutes and start turning. You are rewarded with a strong joint and much better centering than you generally achieve with metal four-jaw scroll chucks.

Turn the Inside

Use a bowl gouge to hollow out your bowl. Starting in the center, use a series of sweeping cuts to bring the interior to the desired shape and a uniform wall thickness. Then sand the interior, again starting with 40- to 60-grit and working to 180-grit. Now is a good time to apply the first coat of finish if you wish. I generally use an oil finish such as Waterlox or Minwax®.

Employ a cutoff (parting) tool to separate your almost-finished bowl from the glue block. Cut the glue block, keeping the right edge of the tool on the glue line. I cut about two-thirds of the foot diameter, stop the lathe, then lightly tap the bowl, and it generally comes right off in my other hand. If not, cut a bit deeper and try again. It is better not to harshly sever the bowl from the glue block with the parting tool: just use it to encourage separation.

The last task is to reverse chuck the bowl. Yes, we need one more chucking, to remove all traces of the mortise, leaving a refined foot reminiscent of pottery. This can be done two different ways. The first is to mount a 3/4″- to 1″-thick disk of wood that is slightly bigger than the bowl and scrape a tapered groove that the bowl will lock into. Fitting this jam chuck may sound daunting, but it is not that hard to do. Use the chucking scraper to create a channel a bit wider than the wall of your bowl, with the outside wall tapered inward about 3°. It takes patience, but just keep stopping the lathe and testing the fit until you’ve achieved a locking taper.

The second method is to attach a block of wood to the faceplate and turn it to a rounded form. Place a square of cloth inside your bowl, place the bowl and cloth over the block, and pin it there with the tailstock quill and a live center.

Putting a 1/4″ square of wood between the center point and the bowl will keep the center from damaging your bowl. You can now refine the foot and be left with only a small area at the center that is easy to sand out. Apply more coats of finish off of the lathe.

Faceplate Advantages

At last, set the bowl on the kitchen table and let everyone admire it — while you order one or two more faceplates. An extra faceplate or so is very handy to have for this process. Ideally, you would use one for mounting the blank, a second with a glue block for fitting to the foot, and a third with the disk for your jam chuck. Even if you purchase two more faceplates, that’s still far cheaper than buying a four-jaw scroll chuck. If you one day decide to spring for the chuck, you will be able to use it far more effectively because of your glue block experience.

When using glue blocks, you get more secure holding and better centering, and your design controls the chuck — not the other way around. I see many bowls with bases that are too big to be aesthetically pleasing because the jaws set in the chuck dictated that diameter. With faceplate turning, you won’t have that problem.

The post Turning a Bowl with Just a Lathe and a Faceplate appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Mount Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge, Massachusetts, was founded in 1831 as the first “landscaped cemetery” in the United States. The cemetery does an annual survey to evaluate the state of the monuments and grounds, then prioritizes restoration projects, many of which relate to maintaining stone. However, a couple of years ago, a wooden door leading into the Bourne Family Tomb was chosen for a restoration focus.

Mary M. Bourne purchased a 2,073-square-foot lot on February 14, 1867. Construction began in 1867, and the tomb’s first use was in 1881. It cost $30,000 and was the most expensive tomb at Mount Auburn at that time.

According to Steve Brown of the cemetery’s preservation department, “At some point in the first half of the 20th century, the heavy wooden door replaced an ornate marble door which was in bad shape.” The white oak door is 50″ wide by 96″ tall and 2-1⁄2″ thick. Moving it indoors for restoration “was definitely a two-man job,” says Steve.

The door suffered from age and water damage: snow and rain had wicked into it through the end grain. The bottom 3″ had rotted and the wood was warped and sagging.

Retain Original Materials

Steve and partner Greg Ghazil are both graduates of the Preservation Carpentry program at Boston’s North Bennet Street School. That experience, Greg said, “gave us a certain training and mindset towards restoration. Our goal was to remove the least amount of original materials.” They did strip off several coats of paint, using Dumond® Peel Away® Marine Safety Strip, finding some beautiful wood underneath.

Steve and Greg said the restoration of the door required “the removal of the failed material back to solid material.” They cut the bottom 30” of the door in a pyramid pattern to make a Dutchman’s patch on the door panels. Pieces were attached to either connect or cover a panel.

Greg found out after beginning to work with the new wood, that “its latent energy made it very hard to cut. Stabilizing its tension activity became part of the project.” They did this by placing side panels to hold the wood. Greg says, “Major care and attention had to be done with the router jig; it had to be timed out to an even depth. This was probably the most difficult part of the project. If the router dropped, we would be in trouble.”

The entire job took two weeks. Both men said, “We were troubleshooting as we went along. We had to build up the ends, and take care to get the right height for every panel.” To further complicatethe job, they found that the tongue-and-grooves in the door had different widths in the door panels. When they reached the correct stage of the work, they hogged out the wood using chisels and mallets. Then they used the router to give a more finished surface.

Steve says, “We decided to paint the door because it was painted previously and we wanted to keep our repair and rehabilitation of the door true to its original design.” They applied several primer coats using California Paints Acrylic Latex Trouble Shooter Primer. Then they did a flat black final coat using California Paints Exterior Acrylic Latex Paint. They also restored the iron knocker along with the metal plate under it and a black iron cross on the door’s window.

Greg says, “Our jobs at Mount Auburn are a nice balance of hands and brain. I love working with my hands, and the variety of projects here offers a constant challenge. Every project has a different set of issues to resolve.”

The Bourne Tomb, with its restored door, is located on Oxalis Path within Mount Auburn Cemetery.You can find more information about visiting Mount Auburn at www.mountauburn.org or by calling 617-547-7105.

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Get the plans for this dog dish stand and storage box in the September/October 2017 issue of Woodworker’s Journal.

Click here to see this issue.

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WORX Ai Drill

Product Overview:

Milwaukee Tool M18 FUEL 71⁄4″ Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw

Briggs & Stratton Q6500 QuietPower Series Inverter Generator

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DeWALT FLEXVOLT® 20V/60V* MAX Batteries

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