All versions require one center module and two end modules; the number of side modules linking the center and end modules can vary as you wish. The modules can be arranged and glued to form either straight or curved arms.

Cutting Components from Patterns

Each module consists of two 3/8″-thick pieces: a top piece that is drilled with holes for the candles and a bottom piece that allows the convex and concave ends of adjacent modules to slide into each other. Additional pieces of 3/8″-thick stock are used for the lower center support and the collar for the center candle.

While all of these parts can be cut out with a scroll saw, you can expedite the cutting process for the side and end modules by first using a table saw to rip that stock to 1-7/8″ wide.

We’ll build the nine-candle menorah shown here. Start by downloading and printing out the free PDF patterns, cut them out and attach them to your 3/8″ stock with repositionable spray adhesive.

Prick all drilling points with an awl, then cut and sand all pieces labeled A through E to shape. Trim the sides where indicated from two of the C pieces. Then remove the paper patterns and any adhesive residue that remains.

Drilling the Holes

I chose 3/8″-thick stock for a more delicate look than is typical of most tea light candleholders. This, however, will require drilling both through and shallow holes in the modules to obtain the necessary depth for the candles. You’ll use a 1-9/16″-diameter Forstner bit to drill all holes. This size easily accommodates a standard tea light candle without excessive play. (A 40 mm Forstner bit, about 0.5 mm larger, can also be used.)

Before drilling each hole, deepen the awl mark with a center punch to make it easier to position the Forstner bit accurately. Start by drilling a through hole at one end of each of four D pieces, which will become the tops of the four side modules. Drill through holes at both outer awl marks of piece A as well. (The center hole of piece A is shallow and will be drilled later.) Then make the collar for the top center hole.

Begin by using a compass to draw a 1-7/8″-diameter circle at one end of the 2″ x 3″ workpiece. Deepen the center mark with a punch and drill a through hole at this mark. Cut to the outside of the circle and sand to the line with a belt sander to complete the collar; set it aside for now.

Next, compute the full depth of the candle holes by measuring the height of your candles and subtracting 1/16″. My candles measured 5/8″ tall, so their full hole depth is 9/16″. It’s a good idea to drill a test hole to confirm the correctness of your setting. Use this figure to compute the depth for the shallow holes by subtracting 3/8″ (6/16″) from your computed full depth; mine came to 3/16″ (9/16″ minus 6/16″). Drill a test hole to that depth, set the center collar over it and insert a candle; it should seat to the same depth as with the full hole.

The spur of the bit may pierce the underside of the wood when you drill these shallow holes, but it should leave just a pinpoint. Drill a shallow hole at the middle punch mark of piece A and the remaining punch marks of the four drilled side module D pieces. Next, drill shallow holes at one end of two of the remaining undrilled D pieces. These are the tops for the two end modules.

Gluing and Clamping the Components

Glue each of the tops for the end modules to one of the remaining undrilled D pieces. When the glue dries, drill a full-depth candle hole at the remaining drilling point of each of these end modules. These deeper holes will face outward when the end modules are glued into place.

To make the center module, glue the collar into place on piece A, aligning it with the shallow-drilled hole. A toothpick can help spread glue around the rim of the shallow hole to minimize excess. Clamp, carefully remove any squeeze-out, and let the glue dry.

Place a loop of masking tape on the top face of the upper support (piece B) and press that piece gently into position on the underside of piece A, aligning their front and back edges. Slide the shallow-drilled end of a D piece under each end of the A piece.

Adjust the parts as needed until the through and shallow candle holes on both sides are aligned. Press down on A to compress the tape loop and secure this position. Remove the D pieces and mark across A/B to register the glue-up. Then peel off the masking tape and glue A and B together. Clamp the parts, making sure the penciled reference marks remain aligned while the glue dries.

To make the four side modules, glue one bottom side E piece to the underside of each of the four remaining D pieces. Clamp each module, carefully removing any squeeze-out, and let the glue dry. Sand the sides of the modules flush with a vertical belt sander.

Before gluing all the modules together, it’s a good idea to do a dry run to determine the sequence that gives the best fit between adjacent units and the most attractive appearance. Use pieces of 3/8″ scrap to stabilize the modules as you try out your options.

When you’re satisfied with the arrangement, number the modules to prevent confusion during glue-up. If you’re planning a curved version, make a small angle guide to keep the menorah’s overall shape uniform.

Assembling Modules, Finishing Up

Begin by gluing a side module to one end of the center module. Clamp the glued unit, clean away squeeze-out, then attach a module to the other end in the same way. Add modules outward in this manner. Make sure the deeper candle holes on the end modules face out.

The center of the menorah is stabilized from behind by a three-piece glue-up of lower supports (C). Face-glue the two shortened lower supports and let this assembly dry.

Then orient this piece with its curved side up and attach pattern F to the top face. Cut along the pattern’s curved line to create the foot for the stabilizing unit. Sand it smooth.

Now glue the flat face of the foot to the full-length lower support piece, matching their curved and flat faces. Sand this assembly when it dries, then glue and clamp it into place at the back edge of the menorah.

Sand the whole project to 220-grit. I finished my menorah with shellac, then several coats of lacquer, smoothing between coats with 0000 steel wool.

Click Here to Download the Drawings and Materials List.

The post PROJECT: Menorah/Holiday Tea Light Candleholder appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Download the Pattern Here.

The post Menorah/Holiday Tea Light Candleholder Template appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Both methods are easy to learn and far less demanding than traditional approaches. The first produces segmented bowls with solid sides; the second creates open segmentation.

Segmentation with Solid Sides

My method for creating this type of bowl eliminates the need to cut many small pieces at precise angles. Instead, it relies on stack cutting, a standard scroll saw technique, to create the blank.

The basics are simple: two contrasting blanks, typically between 1/4″ and 1/2″ thick, are attached with double-sided tape. A pattern, consisting of a circle divided into a designated number of segments, is attached; the circumference and segments are then cut to shape.

Once cut and numbered, alternate segments from each set are exchanged to form two multi-colored circles. Because all pieces are stack cut, deviations in any piece are compensated for by complementary deviations in the adjacent pieces.

The segments are glued at their edges to form two circles and sanded lightly once the glue has set. They are then glued together to form the blank.

The blank can then be cut in the same way as any scrolled bowl, or rings cut from it can be used as decorative elements in a multi-blank project.

Open Segmentation

It was challenging to design a blank that would look like open segmentation when cut into rings, but the solution turned out to be quite simple. The blank is constructed from wedges cut from a circle, then glued evenly around a thin substrate.

A pattern is attached to the substrate side and the rings are cut at predetermined angles. The cutting process creates rings with a regular pattern of slices and spaces.

Depending on size and purpose, the bowl can be cut so that the wall thickness remains uniform throughout, or cut so that the wall thickness increases slightly with each successive ring.

Walls of even thickness are ideal for smaller bowls, especially those that are primarily decorative, while those with increasing wall thickness have a greater gluing surface — a consideration for larger bowls or those intended for regular use.

Sanding of an open segmented bowl is standard, with two notable exceptions. First, care must be taken to avoid catching the sander on the edges of the segments; the slits at the bottom of the round inflatable sander are especially vulnerable. For this reason, I use the smaller of the two inflatable sanders: the openings in their abrasives resist snagging better.

Second, the center section of the blank, usually used as the base, has wedges on its underside. These must be sanded off for the piece to be used. If this is not feasible, cut a new base from the same wood as the substrate.

Variations to Explore

This versatile method for open segmentation can be used for rounded square and wavy bowls as easily as for round ones. With a slight pattern adaptation, it can even be used to make oval bowls whose segments remain evenly sized all around the circumference.

Once you’ve mastered the process for making a basic scrolled bowl, it’s an easy transition to variations that no one will believe were made with a scroll saw.

The post Simulating Segmentation with the Scroll Saw appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Corian®

In thicknesses of 1/2″ or less, Corian can be used to make attractive cutting boards, trivets, coasters and candleholders. Even though it’s expensive to buy, you can often get offcuts from a local countertop fabricator for little or no cost. (It helps to call in advance, bring a sample of your work and cut a small project as a thank you.) Another source is eBay; check frequently, as offerings change constantly.

While easy to cut, the material can melt if the wrong type of blade is used or the motor speed is too high. Skip tooth blades are generally recommended, with motor speed set at about 60 percent of capacity. However, after some experimentation, I found that the #5 Flying Dutchman Polar blade had no trouble handling 1/2″ Corian at the highest speed setting, while others could not do so at any speed.

This variability of performance among blades is why you should always make trial cuts on scrap with the blade and speed setting that you’re planning to use. When your project has been cut, sand it to correct irregularities, soften edges and create the desired degree of shine.

Acrylic

Acrylic sheets can be cut with a scroll saw, provided precautions are taken to reduce friction and heat. When cut, the edges look frosted; heat from a butane torch will restore the clear appearance as well as soften the edges and remove small surface scratches.

Acrylic excels where transparency is desirable. When used as the center panel of a frame-and-panel box lid, it allows the contents to remain visible even when the box’s lid is closed.

Metal

Equipped with a metal-cutting blade, the scroll saw can cut soft metal such as copper silver, brass and aluminum, up to 1/8″ thick, as well as 1/8″ brass rod. Sheets can be taped between pieces of 1/8″ plywood to prevent burrs on the underside, keep shavings under control and protect the saw table.

In the hands of a skilled cutter, the scroll saw can also be used to cut coins, turning these everyday objects into pieces of incredible beauty and delicacy.

Foam Core, Paper, Fabric

Many craft materials can be cut quickly and easily with the scroll saw.

I’ve cut 1/2″-thick foam core glued to hardboard to make a base for a wedding cake.

I’ve also used it to craft a custom-sized ring holder. The scroll saw can also make quick work of cutting multiple shapes for appliqués or quilts.

Not all fabrics cut equally well; select those unlikely to shift, such as medium weight cotton.

Fabric can also be glued to plywood, then clamped securely to prevent cupping as it dries.

And don’t overlook the saw’s ability to customize notepads or make stacks of decorative cutouts.

Once you start thinking outside the (wooden) box, you just might begin to use your saw in ways that you never imagined.

The post Cutting Different Materials with Your Scroll Saw appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The learning curve, fortunately, is a quick one, and the reward for mastery is entry into the realm of the stacked ring bowl. Sometimes called a “bowl from a board,” it is constructed from concentric rings cut at a specific angle that allows them to stack with near-perfect alignment.

Straight Side Bowls

This angle is a function of wood thickness and ring width. It can be approximated, but for precision, it should be computed using a tangent table or an app, like the Angle Calculator at scrollmania.com.

When all cuts are made at this angle, the result is a bowl with straight sides of uniform thickness that can often be sanded with spindle and belt sanders.

Bowls of this type are usually cut from patterns that show all the rings, and their finished appearance runs the gamut from plain to dramatic.

Curving Side Bowls

As attractive as straight-sided bowls can be, the potential of the stacked ring approach is shown most clearly by bowls whose sides form graceful curves. The first cut of this type of bowl is made at the same computed angle as its straight-sided counterpart. At that point, the formulaic aspect ends and artistry begins.

By making subsequent cuts at progressively steeper angles, curved sides are created; the amount of curvature is dependent upon angle choice. Two different methods can be used. One results in bowls with gradually thickening sides, and the other with sides that remain uniform.

For greater flexibility in angle choice, curved-sided bowls are usually cut from patterns showing only the first ring. That ring becomes the template for the second; the second ring serves as a template for the third ring, and so on, until all the rings are cut. Because of their curvature, these bowls are best shaped and smoothed using small sanders chucked into a drill press.

Using Multiple Blanks

With a single blank, you can make a bowl that flares outward at the top and gradually tapers down to a smaller base. To construct more elaborate projects such as vases, or bowls whose upper rings curve inward, you’ll need to use one or more additional blanks. Rings cut from these blanks are added to the original set, and the project is finished as one unit.

Projects requiring more than two blanks are often assembled and sanded as subunits, then glued together for the final shaping.

Final Steps

While rings cut at a steep angle form the structure of a scrolled bowl, its ultimate appearance depends on the care taken with the procedures that follow the cuts. These steps (gluing, sanding and finishing) are often regarded as nuisances, to be dispensed with as quickly as possible. The result may be a bowl that disappoints rather than delights, with visible glue lines, irregular upper edges and a finish with drips and sags.

While many scroll saw projects are essentially complete once the cuts are made, scrolled bowls are not. They are most appropriately viewed as creative endeavors, in which careful cutting of the rings at a steep angle is only the first step in a process that can produce bowls comparable in beauty and artistry to those turned on a lathe.

The post Scroll Saw Cutting at a (Steep) Angle appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Making the Cut: Angle, Blade Size, Direction

Angled cuts are made with the saw table or arm tilted left or right. Tilting the saw table down to one side is the equivalent of tilting the arm to the opposite side. When the gauge reads zero degrees, a cutout piece will slip completely through the surrounding wood. As the cutting angle increases, less of the piece can be pushed through before it binds. Larger blades create wider kerfs than smaller ones, which means that more of the piece can be pushed through at a given angle than if the cut were made with a smaller blade. That’s why it’s a good idea to make test cuts to determine the best cutting angle for the blade and wood you’ll be using.

The cut is made either “clockwise” or “counterclockwise,” which refers to how the blade appears to move through the wood.

Double-bevel Inlay

“Double-bevel inlay,” unlike the traditional type, does not require a separately made recess. Instead, it is created from two pieces of equally thick wood (one decorative, the other the base), stacked and secured with tape or hot glue.

Which piece is placed on top depends on the particular design. A pattern is attached and a blade entry hole drilled on the cutting line, using the smallest bit that will accommodate the blade. You then cut the pattern at an angle that allows the decorative piece to seat into its matching recess in the base.

Entry holes are usually drilled at the same angle as the cut, leaving small holes that are usually invisible when filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. Make your test cuts with simple shapes, and start with an angle typical for your wood thickness and blade size.

Wood that is 1/4″ thick, for example, is usually cut between 2° and 3°, depending on blade size. If the cutout drops too much, increase the cutting angle by 1/2°; if too little, decrease it by 1/2°. Continue testing until the cutout is level or protrudes only slightly from the base.

Collapsible Baskets

These intriguing baskets spring, like magic, from a flat piece of wood. The mechanism is a spiral, cut at an angle that allows the rings to drop, grab and create a recess, yet not slip through each other. Made from a single piece of stock, the straight-cut frame and support pieces are cut away first, then the spiral portion is cut clockwise from its center at an appropriate angle.

For 3/4″-thick stock and a #7 blade, this angle is about 2-1/2°, depending on the desired amount of drop. Test cuts are best done as small complete spirals, since several rotations are needed to establish the drop. When cutting is complete, the components are assembled.

As with any new skill, cutting at an angle requires practice. Once you’ve mastered this skill, you’ll increase both your project repertoire and your appreciation of the scroll saw’s versatility.

The post Cutting at a (Shallow) Angle appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

In the world of tools, where bigger often means better, this small-sized saw gives little evidence of its large-sized capabilities. Because many types of projects can be cut with the scroll saw (a good thing), it’s defined primarily by what it can make, rather than by what it can do (a not-so-good thing). As a result, its use as a versatile shop tool is largely ignored. Here’s some information to fill in the gaps and motivate you to dust off, and perhaps even upgrade, your scroll saw.

Scroll Saw or Band Saw?

When making curved cuts, most woodworkers think “band saw,” rather than “scroll saw.” Both use a variety of blades,and both can make angled cuts of up to 45˚. The band saw clearly has the advantage in power and size of stock that can be handled. However, it cannot make internal cuts without cutting in from the edge. Even if made with the grain and glued carefully, such cuts remain visible on the sides of the wood. In addition, setup and blade changes are time-consuming, and the sharp blade can inflict damage if handled improperly.

The scroll saw is the tool of choice if workpieces are small or if fingers come close to the blade. Tasks such as cutting keys for miter slots are performed quickly, accurately and safely, requiring only two simple cuts per key.

The scroll saw also makes internal cuts and cutout areas with ease. To cut out an area, drill a blade entry hole, insert the blade, cut along the line, then smooth the edge with a spindle sander.

Additional Uses

The scroll saw can be used to cut the cheeks of a dovetail and to divide a wide tenon into two smaller ones. It can also cut the bottom curve of an apron for a small table or étagère. Use the saw to cut veneer for marquetry or to cut thin stock for double-bevel inlays. Give a box a decorative edge or integral feet, or simulate an inlay on a lid. You can even scroll a custom chain support.

As if this weren’t enough, you can always try a puzzle or other scrolled project, or make one with your child or grandchild. Unlike other power tools, the scroll saw provides a safe and engaging way to introduce a youngster to woodworking.

Before dusting off your scroll saw, assess the state of your scrolling skills. If they are rusty or nonexistent, bring them up to speed. Once learned, they can open the door to many fresh and exciting possibilities in your woodshop. Oh, and the answer to the original question? All of these projects were made with the scroll saw.

The post Scroll Saw: A Serious Tool for a Serious Shop appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

I never thought of using stacked rings to create a sphere until a friend asked for help creating a hollow blank he could turn on his lathe to make a round holiday ornament. As I worked up the specs, I thought it likely that the blank could also be shaped with bowl sanders. My first attempts were rather crude, but once I tweaked the patterns and cutting angles and worked out a sanding strategy, things “took shape” quite easily.

However, I did learn that sanding a small blank into a sphere is different from shaping bowl rings. So even if you’re familiar with bowl-making tools and techniques, do a trial run (or two) with scrap before starting the actual projects.

Choosing the Stock

The beauty of the ornament and its ease of sanding are affected by your wood choices. Whether you use standard hardwoods like walnut, cherry and maple, or prefer exotics like purpleheart, redheart, padauk and yellowheart, be sure that adjacent layers contrast attractively. If you’re uncertain how a combination will look when finished, apply mineral spirits for a good approximation. In addition, since dense stock sands more slowly than softer wood, choose pieces that sand similarly, or you’ll end up with ridges instead of smooth curves.

Whether plain or laminated, all stock for this project must be 1/2″ thick for the angled pieces to align correctly. For a single ornament, you’ll need one the same stock. In addition to saving wood, it’s easier to laminate one large piece than many smaller ones.

Jingle Balls

It’s easy to add a festive sound to your holiday spheres.

1. Select a jingle bell with a loud, clear sound, sized between 1″ and 1-1/2″ in diameter. It will fit inside the sphere, but won’t fall through the bottom hole. (The author sourced hers from Amazon.com, using the bells found in the ENJOY PET brand 7 Premium Extra Large Loud 1.4″ Doorbells for Puppies Training.)

2. Cut the five pieces as directed in the instructions, but do not remove the pattern from one of the two end pieces. Use a #62 or other small bit to drill a through hole at the center mark shown on the pattern. This transfers the mark to the smaller face. Place the end piece with the smaller face up and secure it to keep it from rotating. Use a 1/2″-dia. brad-point bit to drill a through hole at the center mark.

3. Stack, number and glue the pieces together, but do not attach the drilled end piece. Clamp the four pieces and let the glue dry.

4. Place the jingle bell inside the glued up assembly. Glue on the drilled end piece. Clamp and let dry completely.

5. Shape the sphere as directed, and soften the edges of the 1/2″ hole. Use a shop vacuum to remove sanding dust from the inside of the sphere.

6. Attach a 5 mm screw eye and apply finish as directed.

Design Options

Attractive ornaments can be made from plain stock, but a layer of thin dyed veneer adds visual interest without significantly affecting stock thickness. Veneer is available in many shades, and it retains its color — an important consideration for items intended as keepsakes or family heirlooms. You can laminate one or both faces of the substrate, depending on your design. Two-sided laminations can be used for center or angled rings. One-sided laminations can be used for angled rings and end pieces, but be sure to cut end pieces with the veneered side facing up. If you cut them from the plain face, the veneer will be sanded away during shaping.

To laminate your stock, apply a generous amount of glue to the substrate, spread it evenly, position the piece(s) of veneer, and use a roller for a good bond. Clamp the lamination and let it dry fully.

To make a sphere with narrow stripes, create the 1/2″-thick stock from two contrasting pieces of wood, each 1/4″ thick and large enough to fit all five pattern pieces. For additional interest, you can sandwich a piece of thin veneer between the 1/4″ pieces of wood.

Cutting and Gluing the Pieces

Once your stock is ready, attach the five patterns to the appropriate pieces of wood, using repositionable adhesive. Use an awl to mark the center of each end piece where indicated on the pattern. You’ll use this mark to maintain symmetry as you shape the sphere. If you’d rather not use patterns, draw the rings and circles directly on the stock with a pencil compass, being careful not to change the pattern specs. The narrow-striped ornament needs a special layout for the stripes to be continuous throughout the sphere. Attach patterns for the center ring, an angled ring and an end piece on one face of the laminated blank. Then, invert the blank and attach the remaining two patterns to the opposite face. The pieces are then cut, glued and shaped the same as any other sphere.

With the saw table perpendicular to the blade, cut the center ring. I do this by cutting in straight to the outer circle, pivoting on the cut line, then cutting around the circle. Entering the wood this way keeps the circle from pivoting as you end the cut. Drill a straight blade entry hole on the inner circle. Insert the blade and cut the inner circle. Next, set the saw to cut the angled rings. If your saw has a tilting arm, tilt it 25° to the right. If your saw has a tilting table, tilt the left side of the table down to 25°.

Using a shop-made guide, drill a 25° angle blade entry hole on the inside circle of each angled ring, drilling toward the center of the ring. Cut the outer circle first, cutting in a clockwise direction. Insert the blade through the angled entry hole and cut the inner circle in the same direction. To cut the solid end pieces, tilt the saw arm or table the same way as for the rings, but set it to 35°. Cut around each circle in a clockwise direction.

Stack the five pieces, rotating them for the most attractive grain match. Number the pieces consecutively on their fronts to help maintain their orientation during glue-up. Start by gluing the angled rings to the center ring, making sure that the edges of adjacent components line up precisely.

To minimize slippage when clamping pressure is applied, I prefer to use a wood glue with a quick grab, such as Weldbond®, available on Amazon.com. Clamp the assembly briefly in a clamp or vise. Remove it, correct any slippage, then glue on the end pieces. Clamp the assembly and let it dry fully.

Completing the Sphere

To begin transforming this rough, roundish object into a smooth, symmetrical orb, chuck a standard-density 2″ or 3″ flexible pad sander with 80-grit disc into a drill press. The larger size pad removes wood more quickly, but the smaller one gives better control. With the workpiece held horizontally, start sanding at the center ring, shaping one edge to meet the adjacent ring in a smooth curve. Repeat with the other edge. Continue shaping the sides, working from the center toward the ends, and checking constantly for roundness and symmetry. Do not shape the edges or tops of the end pieces yet. When the sides are shaped, sand progressively through the grits to 150.

Since shaping the end pieces is guided primarily by eye, you’ll find it helpful to make a semicircular template with a 2-9/16″-diameter cutout to check your progress. Using a 2″ pad and 80-grit disc, position the workpiece at a 45° angle to the pad. Start by sanding down the “shoulders” of the end pieces, then sand gradually towards the awl mark. As the curve starts taking shape, use the template to determine where wood needs to be removed, adjusting the position of the workpiece as needed.

When you’re satisfied with the profile, sand the newly shaped areas to 150-grit, then sand the entire sphere to 240. Attach a soft interface pad to the sander to avoid changing the shape of the sphere, and sand to 320-grit. Finish by hand-sanding with foam-backed sandpaper to remove minor irregularities. Keep in mind that even if the shaping is slightly “off,” as long as the orb is smooth and symmetrical, nobody will know that this was not your original intent.

I use 5 mm gold-colored screw eyes for spheres intended for hanging, since the screw eyes are attractive, unobtrusive and sturdy. Because the threaded portion is short and thin, I use a #62 wire size drill bit and rotary tool to drill the hole, and I mark the length of the threaded portion on the bit with tape.

Clamp the sphere firmly to stabilize it. Deepen the existing awl mark to prevent slippage as you start the hole, then drill to the marked depth. Screw the hanger into place, using an awl, if needed, for leverage.

Attach small paper clips to the screw eyes to hang the spheres for finishing, or support them from below. Apply a sealer coat of thinned shellac. When dry, smooth the surface with 320- grit sandpaper or buff with a well-worn 320-grit sanding mop. Apply additional coats of a clear finish of your choice.

Once your family gets a glimpse of these unique, beautiful decorations, be prepared to make lots of colorful sanding dust!

Click Here to Download the Drawing.

The post PROJECT: Holiday Spheres appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

I bought an instructional book and an assortment of blades, and started teaching myself how to cut. As I worked my way through the exercises, I was impressed by the range and beauty of the projects that could be made with this versatile little tool. From that point on, I never looked back.

What Can a Scroll Saw Do?

Smaller than most shop tools and deceptively simple in appearance, the scroll saw is the hands-down winner for “most underestimated and unappreciated tool in the workshop.” Because of its association with simple, pattern-based projects (think sewing machine!), woodworkers often fail to appreciate its capabilities and therefore don’t utilize it fully in their shops.

You may already be familiar with some of the better-known uses of the scroll saw. They include:

– Puzzles of various types

– Fretwork, in which a blade is inserted into the workpiece through small entry holes to permit the removal of pieces of varying sizes and shapes

– Intarsia and segmentation, which use many small pieces of wood glued together to form mosaics

– Wooden toys of all types, from simple pull toys to realistic, detailed models You’re less likely to know that with the scroll saw you can also:

– Make bowls and vases that appear at first glance to be lathe-turned

– Create unique boxes of many kinds, free from the constraints and demands of conventional joinery

– Make projects usually associated with the band saw, such as “band saw boxes” and collapsible baskets

– Use a technique called compound cutting to create three-dimensional objects

– Decorate projects with inlay and marquetry without using a router or chisel

– Cut a variety of materials: softwood, hardwood, particleboard, Corian®, acrylic, melamine, aluminum, copper, silver, brass, gold, horn, antler, bone, glass, ceramic tile and stone

– In conjunction with other tools, cut dovetails and tenons, and make templates to use with bearing-guided router bits

A pretty impressive list for an unassuming little tool!

Choosing a Scroll Saw

To get the most from a scroll saw, you’ll need to find the features that make a particular saw, or model, most appropriate for you. Some things to look for, overall, include: minimal vibration; vertical or near-vertical up and down movement of the blade; conveniently located speed controls and tension adjustments; and easy-to-use blade clamps.

Some scroll saws have matching stands. Some are adjustable; others areavailable in different heights and configurations, including wheelchair accessibility. A foot pedal, which serves as an On/Off switch, may be included. I strongly recommend one, since it frees up your hands to control the workpiece. I’ve found low-profile foot pedals the most comfortable to use.

The throat size of the saw table — the distance between the blade and the rear of the saw table — determines the size of the wood you can cut. It typically ranges from 16″ to 30″. The saw table itself can vary in size, shape and distance from the blade to the front of the table. As with table saws, those with more saw table surface area provide more stability for larger workpieces.

Some saws require a tool to secure the blade into its clamp; others use knobs that are hand tightened. Sometimes several options are offered, or a combination of methods is used. Regardless of specifics, a well-designed system of any type will be easy to use and provide a secure, reliable attachment.

Blade clamps — upper, lower or both — can be either attached to the saw or removable. This feature is relevant for those who do fretwork, which involves feeding the blade through small holes drilled in the workpiece. Those who prefer to insert the blade from the top down, or “top feeders,” need a saw whose lower clamp can remain in place when the bottom of the blade is detached. To “top feed,” the scroller detaches the bottom of the blade from its holder, leaving the top end attached, and feeds the blade through the drilled hole in the workpiece and the opening in the saw table. The blade is then reattached to the bottom holder. “Bottom feeding,” done in the opposite direction, can be done with all saws, since the upper end of the blade is always detachable with its clamp in place.

All scroll saws can make beveled cuts, typically up to 45°. Making cuts of this type usually requires tilting the saw table. However, some saws are designed so that the arm tilts and the table remains level. While this might seem a major advantage, even the steepest cuts can, with practice, be cut successfully with the table tilted. Some tables tilt fully in only one direction. This poses no problem, since cutting clockwise with the saw table tilted one way gives the same results as cutting counterclockwise with the table tilted the other way.

Ease of maintenance: although all scroll saws are easily maintained, some may have fuses and brushes that need periodic replacement, while others require only the oiling of a few moving parts after a specified number of hours of use.

Selecting Blades

Choosing scroll saw blades can be confusing, even for experienced scrollers, since several companies manufacture quality blades that vary in type, tooth configuration, teeth per inch (tpi) and other characteristics.

The most commonly used blade is the skip tooth, a blade with widely spaced teeth that cut on the down stroke. Reverse tooth blades are skip tooth blades that have a small number of teeth, usually at the bottom of the blade, which cut on the upstroke. This gives a smoother cut on the underside of the wood. However, this type doesn’t clear away sawdust as effectively as the skip tooth and may cause the wood to bounce slightly. Spiral blades have teeth that spiral all around the blade so you can cut in any direction. Controlling this type of blade takes practice, but the ability to cut in any direction without moving the workpiece is especially important for those doing large, intricate fretwork projects, involving many tiny cutout areas.

Even blades of similar types differ in how aggressively or smoothly they cut. As you gain experience, you’ll be able to select the blades that work best for your cutting and project preferences. For starters, however, make your best guess and buy a few dozen blades of types and sizes that seem appropriate. As you try them out, keep notes on their performance, and before long you’ll know just which blades are best for you.

Beyond the Basics: Cutting at an Angle

Once you’re comfortable making beveled cuts, new types of scroll saw projects become possible.

You can easily and economically make bowls and vases of different shapes and sizes from angled concentric rings that are glued together, then sanded. Online design tools such as PolyDraw offer myriad shapes and profiles.

Double-bevel inlay refers to a scroll saw technique in which two equally thick (usually between 1/4″ and 3/8″) pieces of wood are attached temporarily. When the piece to be inlaid, with pattern attached, is placed on top, you drill a blade entry hole on the pattern line and cut out the pattern in a clockwise direction. Downward pressure on the upper piece forces the matching lower piece to drop out. The upper piece takes its place, creating the inlay. Multiple pieces can be inlaid sequentially, enabling the scroll saw user to create attractive designs with relative ease.

Scroll Saw Safety

The scroll saw, with its tiny blades, is a relatively safe power-cutting tool. To prevent cutting yourself, keep your fingers to the side or back of the blade, especially when working with small pieces of wood. Eye protection is a must, since small fragments of wood can occasionally go flying. Sawdust is produced both above and below the table, which means a dust mask or respirator is essential, even if you’re using a vacuum or dust extraction system. Hearing protection is always recommended.

Prepare a Successful Cut

For accurate cutting, the blade must be properly tensioned. Too much tension and the blade will snap; too little and it will wander. I tension mine so that there is a slight deflection, no more than 1/8″, when the blade is pushed sideways, being especially careful not to over-tighten fragile, wire-thin blades. Blades are routinely de-tensioned when not in use, and the better saws have a quick-release mechanism at the front of the saw that lets you de-tension the blade without losing the setting.

Vertical cuts require that the saw blade and table be perpendicular to each other. I check this by tensioning the blade and placing a small square next to it to see if the blade and the vertical edge of the square are parallel. If not, depending on the type of saw I am using, I adjust either the arm or table until the blade and vertical edge of the square are aligned, then tighten the knob fully to keep the adjustment.

It’s a good idea to check your saw’s angle gauge at this time, to be sure that it reads zero, and to adjust it if it doesn’t. This lets you use the gauge when adjusting the table or arm for angled cutting.

However, when precision is critical, a small digital readout with magnetic base may be preferable. It can be used with either a tilting arm or table; it’s easy to read; and it avoids the problem of parallax when viewing the scale.

Making the Cut

There is no “shortcut” to learning how to cut: you learn by cutting until you get the feel of guiding the wood smoothly into the blade. Practice the major types of cuts: straight, curved and pivots, which are used to make sharp corners or to reverse direction. Although your first tries may look ragged, you’ll soon find it easy to follow a line accurately. Use a soft wood like pine or poplar, 3/4″ thick, and a #5 skip tooth blade, which is wide enough for stability but narrow enough to make most types of cuts.

Just don’t make the common mistake of continuing to use a dull blade for “those last few inches.” You’ll recognize dulling most easily by the need to increase pressure on the wood as you cut. If you continue to use the blade, burning may occur and the blade may deflect sideways. Eventually, the blade will break. Change the blade as soon as you notice a change in your cutting.

Look online for more of my troubleshooting tips for situations you might encounter during cutting as you move through the variety of projects you can make with a scroll saw.

The post Scroll Saw 101 appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Click Here to Download.

The post Troubleshooting Tips for Scroll Saw Use appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.