Since then, numerous changes have taken place for Bridge City. Key among them has been the appointment of Mark Strahler as Bridge City’s new president. Strahler has a long tenure in the woodworking machinery business. He was once the vice president of marketing and sales for Delta Machinery before it merged with Porter-Cable.

“I was very proud to be part of the team that led Delta Machinery to the leadership position in woodworking machinery. After my time with Delta, I started Orion, a new company that manufactured OEM products primarily for Sears Craftsman. Together with that team, we successfully built numerous quality tools including table saws, jointers, drill presses, dust collectors and grinders for Sears.”

Strahler was also instrumental in starting up Steel City Tool Works in 2005 with five other former Delta employees. When Steel City intended to add table saws and shapers to its product offerings, the search for a supplier led them to Harvey Industries and Jack Xu, who fulfilled the need.

“We immediately recognized that Jack and Harvey Machinery were unlike many of the other OEM factories. He was driven to innovate — not just build another saw, but to build the very best,” Strahler says. “(That) started Jack on the path as an OEM manufacturer for some of the major woodworking companies in the industry.”

When Steel City shuttered its operations, Strahler rejoined Delta Equipment Company in 2011, where Harvey Industries was also serving as an OEM source for some of Delta’s tools. Strahler eventually started his own company, MGS Options, LLC, where he provided import/export consulting services for Harvey Industries and other companies. In that capacity, Strahler helped Xu introduce Harvey-branded machinery, such as the T40 Turbo Lathe and GYRO Air Dust Processors, to the North American market.

Aside from Strahler stepping into his leadership position, another big change for BCTW happened last July, when the company moved from Portland to Montclair, California. Harvey Industries headquarters its North American operations there. Montclair now serves as Bridge City’s administrative and customer service centers, warehouse and product showroom. It’s been a smooth transition that Strahler credits in part to a good BCTW team.

“With regular visits from me, (the team in California) has worked extremely hard to establish the business processes to support the BCTW line and make it work with the existing Harvey Industries business already established in California,” Strahler says.

Strahler adds that his staff has also done a “tremendous job” of continuing to uphold the company’s excellent reputation for customer responsiveness during the move and the subsequent settling process.

At last year’s acquisition, Economaki planned to stay on with the company for a couple of years. These days, he’s working on new designs and redesigns for Bridge City products. In fact, Strahler says John is “feverishly” developing a number of new items for the catalog that the company hopes to launch in June or July. Economaki has gone back to some older tool offerings and is recreating them in order to improve their design and functionality.

“Being free of the day-to-day interruptions of running a business, he is accomplishing more than he had hoped,” Strahler says. “He has enough projects designed for BCTW for the next three years and has plans to continue additional designs thereafter.”

But eventually, John does plan to fully retire. So, Strahler says the company is currently seeking a few talented woodworking tool designers to mentor under John’s tutelage, learn his design philosophies and carry his ideas forward.

Still, those will be big shoes to fill. “There is only one John Economaki, and there will never be anyone who could fully replace him,” Strahler says. “(John) has an in-depth knowledge of how tools should work, feel and look, and he has the ability to communicate all of this to his customers.”

As some of those products change, so do the supply chains for their components. Historically, Bridge City sourced the parts for its North American products from small suppliers, primarily in the Pacific Northwest. That is no longer the case under the new Harvey ownership. Going forward, Strahler says the company has no plans to build any products in the U.S., because doing so would result in a duplication of people and equipment that already exists in Harvey’s Chinese factory. It’s a perplexing reality that faces woodworkers who would prefer to purchase tools made in the United States rather than the Pacific Rim. The “Made in China” stigma is one Strahler says the company deals with every day, and some of the criticism of Chinese-made tools and machinery is justified.

Strahler is quick to clarify that while some “cheap” and low quality woodworking tools continue to be made in China, that’s not the whole story. There’s also a “high quality” end of the product spectrum. It all depends on sourcing.

“Apple’s products that perform well and function beautifully are made in China. Does anyone ever question those? Quality is available from Chinese suppliers if you are willing and committed to demand it and if you are working with the right companies. Harvey Industries is one of those companies,” Strahler says.

He credits Xu’s commitment to high standards for sourcing, innovation and a “tireless demand for perfection” as the attributes that will ensure that Harvey Industries will continue to build premium quality woodworking machines as well as Bridge City hand tools.

Quality assurance and better inventory control are two reasons that BCTW is also “taking it slowly” in the U.S., Strahler points out. “We want to be sure we have a consistent flow of perfect products before we aggressively start to advertise and reach out to a wider customer base.”

Part of that outreach will also involve creating new videos that will introduce the functionality, beauty and versatility of Bridge City’s product line to new segments of the market that might not be familiar with them yet.

For those who are already established BCTW customers, Strahler says the company soon will be reintroducing the Universal Guide, scratch awls and an improved Center Scribe. Economaki will also be blogging soon about a couple of new hand planes that will launch in the next few months.

Overall, Strahler is pleased with Bridge City’s prospects, and he sees the opportunity to help grow that legacy as an exciting and big personal challenge.

“At this stage in my life, I’m no longer interested in working just to work. It has to be more … otherwise, why do it? It’s the same principle with Bridge City Tool Works. Why just buy another cheap T-square? Why not buy something that’s fun to use, is accurate and makes you smile when you pick it up? We are all working to make that happen for woodworkers every day.”

Learn more about Bridge City Tool Works by clicking here.

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– Jim Wilson
San Marcos, Texas

The post Better Cap Options for Precise Gluing appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

-Charles Mak
Calgary, Alberta

The post Storage Option for More Driver Bits appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Tim Inman: Hand Planes 101: Is there a difference between a “regular” old plane and a low-angle block plane? Absolutely! Your observation is right. Usually, the low-angle block plane is easier to use.

Each and every plane has its own design function. The block plane is especially different from most of the others. On most planes, the plane iron — the actual cutting part — is set with the cutting bevel facing down. They have a second part called a chip breaker that rides on top of the plane iron. It is spaced just a little bit behind the cutting edge. How much behind? It depends — on the operator, on the wood, on the plane, etc. The chip breaker setting is critical, and it is an “artistic” choice. A block plane does not have a true chip breaker. The bevel side of the block plane iron is set with the bevel facing up. A “regular” plane holds the plane iron up at a much steeper angle. A low-angle plane lets the plane iron lie down at a lower angle.

Now the history lesson: Once upon a time, long, long ago, wood was cut with hand saws that left ragged edges. These edges had to be planed off for perfectly fitting joints, especially miter joints in frames and cabinets. It was “Whoompa, Whoompa, Swish, Swish” as the wood was sawed and then planed. Even when I was a young man working for my father and uncle, the circular saws still left ragged edges that had to be planed. The block plane was the choice for the job. It was designed to plane end grain wood! Then came carbide blades that cut so smoothly the little workhorse block plane was put out to pasture. Today, only old guys like me can remember using them for what they were intended to do – or why.

Back in the day, carpenters wore bibs with a side pocket on the leg. The block plane was commonly found in one of those pockets. Handy, at the ready and versatile for use on about any job at hand. Still true today. Not many wear carpenter’s striped bibs anymore, but lots and lots of tradespeople who work fine wood will have that little block plane close at hand still.

Which one to use? I go back to my woodturning mentor and friend, Bill Jones. He endeared himself to me instantly at a teaching seminar one time when he was asked by a participant which tool he should use. Bill answered immediately and without hesitation: “The one that cuts,” he said. I agree. Use the plane you like and the one that cuts. It isn’t the tool, but the smooth surface you’re after. Use the one that cuts best for you.

Chris Marshall: I use my low-angle block plane for all sorts of applications. It’s great for leveling mismatched panel edges in a glue-up, trimming the ends of box joint pins, dovetail tails or wood plugs flush when they’re standing proud of a joint, taking the rough surface off of workpieces that are too small to run over the jointer and for general chamfering. This last task is where I probably use mine the most. Whenever I want to “soften” or “ease” a sharp edge but still want to keep the very fine facets of that edge (instead of just rounding it over with a router or abrasives), I reach for my block plane. Every woodworker needs a good block plane. I’ll argue that it should be the first plane we buy, regardless of whether we consider ourselves dyed-in-the-wool machine tool users, “hybrid” woodworkers or a hand tool purists. It’s so versatile and easy to use! And if I had to choose between a low-angle block plane or a “regular” block plane again, I’d still choose the low-angle style. It seems to do everything a block plane should do for me.

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What sets this versatile, cordless multi-sander apart is its exclusive power transmission design with Mode Max Technology that maximizes the performance of each sanding function.

“Most multi-sanders perform well in their primary mode but invariably lose performance in others,” says Jeannie White, WORX product manager. “However, the Sandeck 5-in-1 Multi-Sander provides power transfer that’s specific to the sanding task at hand. Each sanding pad has a unique interface designed to optimize its efficiency, so there’s zero application compromise.”

When Sandeck’s 5-in. random-orbit sanding pad is attached, it makes small ellipses during operation where no two orbits are the same. This leaves a smooth, swirl-free finish. The multi-sander’s orbital diameter is 3/32 in.

In the quarter-sheet finishing pad “mode,” the sanding speed ranges from 4,000 to 10,000 orbits per minute (no-load). Depending on grit selection, the sanding action varies from fast, aggressive material removal to fine smoothing, prior to staining or painting. The quarter-sheet sander’s pad dimensions are 4-1/2 in. x 5-1/2 in.

Sandeck’s detail sanding pad with finger and contour attachments will be handy for sanding hard-to-reach areas, such as corners in drawers and cabinets, between spindles on stairways, along curves and in other confined spaces. The detail sander’s pad dimensions are 5-1/2 in. x 3-1/2 in.

Changing sanding pads is quick and easy. Sandeck’s innovative clamping system employs Hyperlock^®, which exerts one ton of clamping pressure to prevent sanding pad slippage. Sanding speeds are controlled with a five-setting, variable-speed dial. Sanding dust funnels into the DustStopmicro-filter box, which can be removed easily for emptying.

Weighing 4.4 lbs. with battery installed, the sander is powered by a 20V MAX Lithium, 2.0 Ah battery with a built-in power gauge indicator to show the charge level. The 20-volt battery pack is part of the WORX Power Share program and is compatible with other WORX DIY and lawn and garden tools.

The Sandeck Multi-Sander comes with a 20V MAX Lithium, 2.0 Ah battery; 5-hour charger; removable dust port; and 5-in. random-orbit, quarter-sheet finishing and detail sander attachments. Detail finger and contour attachments also are provided, as well as 15 assorted sanding sheets and a storage bag.

The WORX 20V Sandeck 5-in-1 Multi-Sander (model WX820L, $119.99) is available at worx.com and online retailers, including Amazon.  It is covered by the WORX three-year warranty.

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A couple of readers had some empathy. – Editor

“Reading your story about losing your wedding ring in a pile of sawdust reminded me of my story.

“A number of years ago, I had recently lost a lot of weight and I was demonstrating woodturning for my local club at a wood show. After I finished roughing out my bowl, I was wiping the dust off my clothes when I realized my ring had fallen off (yeah, I know… I shouldn’t have had my ring on in the first place). Now, you have to realize there were about five lathes in operation in the booth and there was a quite a pile of shavings on the floor. It’s surprising how wood-coloured shavings are very similar to the colour and shape of a gold wedding band! After a brief, but fruitless, search (picture a bunch of people on their hands and knees rooting through piles of wood shavings), I decided to sweep up the shavings and go through them at home as a last-ditch effort. I filled up two large construction-sized garbage bags.

“After many offers of sofas to sleep on that night, I took the bags home to start my search. Surprisingly, I was more upset about losing the ring than my wife was. In retrospect, I should have labeled which bag I filled first because if I had swept up the ring, it more than likely would have been in the first bag. I spent the next two hours sitting in a cold garage pulling out shavings handful by handful and rubbing them between my hands over a metal dust pan. Grab a handful; rub, rub, rub; empty the dust pan, and repeat. When I had reached the bottom of the first bag, I had almost given up for the night when I heard the glorious ‘thunk’ of my wedding band hitting the dust bin.

“Lesson learned: From then on, I wore my ring on a chain around my neck until I had it resized.” – Carlo Robazza

“I’ve never heard of a silicone ring. I kept losing mine, so I bought a really small one and put it on my Virgin Mary medal chain. It won’t get lost, I won’t get hurt and, most importantly, my wife knows it’s there.  Big added bonus: I don’t have to keep explaining that I lost my wedding ring again!  Four times in 40 years is plenty of explanations.” – Al Micucci

At least one was proud to say that he has not shared in this sort of experience (yet). – Editor

“Amazingly, I still have the original gold band — a little worse for wear, however. I’ve known a few four-fingered truckers who regaled me with gross-you-out tales of fingers ripped off when they jumped off the back of their rig. I also witnessed my brother-in-law’s seared finger after he crossed it on a 12-volt battery. So far, I’ve been lucky. There. Now I’ve jinxed myself.” – Lee Ohmart

And, although it’s too late for Rob (he lost his tungsten wedding ring quite some time ago), this reader had some suggestions for those who find themselves in a similar situation. – Editor

“I don’t know where you live but … what did you do with the sawdust you were working with? Hopefully it is still on your property. I do metal detecting as a hobby. Look up metal detectors in your local phone book unless you live in a smaller town like I do where the phone books have shrunk to almost nothing as people migrate to the Internet. Call them and see if they would direct you to an individual or group that would help you search for the lost ring. If no results, try the Internet and look for local dealers. If that doesn’t work, go back to the internet and do a search for “metal detect club.” Again, you may find a club in your home area or at least a city close by. Most clubs will help find things for individuals.

“Another possibility is to go to: lostmystuff.net. This organization is composed of individuals that will search for lost items for free. You post your information and wait for someone to contact you. Only potential problem is, how far away is the closest member and how long you may have to wait for someone to contact you. This group is set up so that all posted items are put out to all members in that state. The farther away a member is, the less likely they will come to look. I have actually gone out to areas that were at or on the way to a preplanned vacation trip. If you do get someone to come out, try to borrow a tungsten ring from someone else so they can see what metal detector settings pick up the tungsten metal the best.” – Lee Walkowski

The post These Tales Ring True appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Using the set of grill tool hardware from Rockler, we decided to put the lathe to use and turn our handles from hard maple. With the set, you get the hardware to create a spatula, basting brush and a set of tongs.

We’ll turn the spatula and basting brush first, then create a split turning for the tongs second — it’s a slightly different process.

Preparing Blanks

You’ll need blanks that measure 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 6″. Square up the ends, then mark them with diagonal lines to locate the center.

At that center, drill a 1/2″-diameter hole to a depth of 1-1/2″ on one end of each blank. This is where you’ll install the threaded insert hardware that will join the grilling tools to your handle.

Grab the insert and, using an Allen wrench, turn it into the hole until it is just below the surface of the wood, keeping it square to the blank. If it is loose in the hole, use some CA glue or epoxy to secure it firmly.

Turning Spatula and Brush Handles

To turn these two handles, you’ll want to first mount a drill chuck in the lathe’s headstock and install a 1″ Shoulder Mandrel with 5/16″-18 threads in it. Thread the blank on the mandrel. With a live center in the tailstock, engage it to the center of the blank and tighten it.

Begin by roughing your blank into a cylinder, then turn it to the profile you want. Your only restriction? The diameter of the hardware: the 1″ shoulder mandrel is sized to match that diameter. You’ll also want to take note that the tail end of the handle has to be turned to 1″ diameter, too, matching the decorative loop cap hardware.

After turning, sand your workpiece up through the grits, and apply the finish you want. I went with a clear wipe-on polyurethane.

Remove the blank from the mandrel and, using an 11/32″ twist bit, carefully drill a 1-1/4″ deep hole centered on the tail end of the handle. The dimple left by the tailstock will locate the hole.

You’ve got one of your tools’ handles almost complete; thread your other blank onto the shoulder mandrel and repeat the process.

To assemble your spatula and brush, thread the tool hardware into the handle inserts. Attach the loop caps at the handles’ tail ends using quick-set epoxy on the loop cap posts, inserting them in the handles. Make sure to immediately wipe away any glue squeeze-out. And, voilà! You’ve now got a hand turned spatula and basting brush for your grill.

Turning the Split-Handled Tongs

The tongs, because of the two-piece handle, are slightly more complicated. Don’t worry, you can handle it! (Get it?)

You’ll be using the split turning method, and you’ll need two pieces of wood measuring about 3/4″ x 1-1/2″ x 6″ each. Cut a strip from a brown paper grocery bag or just plain brown kraft paper that’s a little bit longer and wider than your pieces of wood. Spread an even layer of wood glue on one face of each of your wooden blanks and sandwich the paper layer between them. After you get this arranged, clamp them together and let the glue cure. (Could be a good time to get a refreshing beverage and set your steak out to thaw.)

When you come back to your tong turning project, first square the ends of the blank if you need to, then use the same process you did with the other handles to draw diagonal corner-to-corner lines to find the centerpoint. It’s critical this center mark hits where your paper is layered between your two pieces of wood to produce matching halves of your tongs.

Mount your glued-up blank assembly between centers on your lathe — no mandrel this time. Make sure the points of the drive and live centers are on the center marks on the blanks’ ends.

Carefully — you absolutely must wear a faceshield for this operation! — rough your blank into a cylinder, taking slightly lighter cuts than usual. Then turn the blank to your desired profile, making sure the ends have a 1″ diameter.

Remove the blank from the lathe, then stand it on end on a solid work surface and carefully position the cutting edge of a sharp 1″ chisel on the paper line. Strike the chisel, using gradually increasing force, to split the blank along the paper layer.

Sand off the residual paper and glue from the flat sides of your blanks.

Assembling the Tongs

It’s time to mount the handles to the tongs. Rough up the mating surfaces of the metal and wood with sandpaper. Apply quick-set epoxy to one of the handle blanks and press it onto one side of the tongs, aligning the blank to the edges and tight against the curved shoulder. Wipe away any squeeze-out and clamp the handle until the epoxy cures.

Next, squeeze the tong handles together and use clamps or tape to hold them in this position. Use the holes in the metal tong hardware as a guide to drill 1/8″-diameter holes perpendicularly through the wood handle for the pins.

Now glue the other handle in place as you did before. This time, drill the 1/8″-diameter holes in the second blank, using the holes in the first handle as a guide.

Now that you have all these holes in your handles, insert a pin into each of them. If they’re loose, use (CA) glue or epoxy to secure the pins. Once they’re tapped in place, file the pins close to the surface of the handles before you do your finish sanding.

Cover the metal on the surface of the tongs to protect it as you sand through the grits — it takes some care to avoid scratching the metal edges next to the wooden handle pieces.

After you’ve applied your finish and let it cure, you’ve got custom tongs to go with the rest of your grilling tools, and the set is complete. Time to celebrate! How about a nice porterhouse?

Grill Tool Turning Hardware

Rockler Grill Tools Hardware Kit #51066
Mandrel with 5/16”-18 Threads #43469

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