“The Zack Rabbit is much faster, shorter and far more durable than other options,” Zack says. “You can attach and release the tool in a split second using just one hand.”

Zack’s father, Brian — who invented the original Zack Rabbit prototype back in the late 1990’s — concurs. “Screws are such a large part of woodworking. If you can improve the speed of this one step, you can save time over and over, for a lot of people.”

The heart of the Zack Rabbit system consists of three sizes of snap-on shafts with a knurled interface on one end and a countersink on the other. They are color-coded in red, green and blue to match the color to a specific drill bit size: 9/64-in. for countersinking #10 screws (red), 1/8-in. for handling #8 screws (green) and 7/64-in. for installing #6 screws (blue). The knurled end contains a proprietary spring design that enables Zack Rabbits to simply snap onto the relief cut in impact-rated driver bits. Sliding the knurled collar forward releases the countersink.

“It is the most durable locking mechanism we could develop and does not seem to be negatively affected by heat or wear,” Zack adds. “The real trick with our product was achieving a very light release without it ever slipping.

Zack testifies that after many thousands of repetitions, there seems to be no change in the tool’s function over time. And, the countersinks can be used with most brands of impact-rated driver bits that have relief cuts near their tips.

But, the knurled countersinks are only part of Zack Rabbit’s integrated system. The other time-saving feature is a plastic Quick-Draw Holster that stows the three countersink sizes, plus several other accessories, when not in use. The holster has a pair of clips in back to mount it to a tool pouch or a belt. Brian believes the holster helps to not only distinguish Zack Rabbit from other countersinks but also sets it ahead of the competition.

“Quick-Draw Holster is the result of a huge amount of R&D, rapid prototyping and end-user feedback by Zack,” Brian says. “You can use it to attach and release the (countersinks) without using your hands. Many times you might not need to use it, but when you are up on a ladder or in an awkward situation, it’s a fantastic advantage to have.”

Even the drill bit style is contrary to many other countersink designs these days: Zack Rabbit uses straight-shank bits rather than tapered-style bits. Brian explains that tapered drill bits are both fragile and more expensive to replace. They also are holdovers from the days when screws were made with a cut thread. Since wood screws are now predominantly manufactured with a rolled thread, that has eliminated the need for a tapered pilot hole.

“We use standard jobber length drill bits made by Viking (a Minnesota company) because they are the best quality we have found.”

Three spare drill bits and an Allen wrench, plus two double-ended driver bits, are included with the “fully loaded” version of the Quick-Draw Holster Set. Clipped to the back side of the holster, the company provides a 3/8-in. tapered plug cutter for making wooden screw plugs to cover counterbored screws. There’s also a patented brass Mag Ring® — another Giffin family innovation — that magnetizes driver bits to keep steel screws from falling off.

“My older brother Jeff Giffin developed the idea while he was studying magnetism under Nobel Award-winning physicist Carl Weismann,” Zack says. “The magnets are arranged with their polarities opposing each other. When you insert the steel driver bit (or a screwdriver shank), they switch their force and magnetize the tip. Mag Ring adds no extra length, and it’s the perfect addition to the Zack Rabbit system.”

Even with this family tour de force of inventiveness, bringing the Zack Rabbit countersinking system and Quick-Draw Holster to market has been no small undertaking. Brian has been a self-trained inventor and machinist since the late 1970s when, as a professional potter, he developed and patented the Giffin Grip® — a three-jawed chucking solution for holding clay on a pottery wheel. It’s now distributed worldwide “as somewhat of a standard” in the ceramics industry, Brian admits. That experience parlayed into developing this wholly different product for the woodworking and construction market. For would-be inventors, he shares the following hard-earned advice:

“Be prepared to become your own rough expert in many fields. Whether it’s learning CAD design, people management, machining prototypes, patents and trademarks, graphics, photography or website development, you need to believe that you can learn just about anything,” Brian says. “Persistence is more important than brains any day. Treat all of your suppliers and customers with great respect, then good luck will have an opportunity to find you … I was taught that if you build a better mousetrap, the necessary money will follow. It seems to work, but it always takes years longer than you wish.”

The Giffins are also firm believers in the value of manufacturing Zack Rabbit entirely in America rather than abroad. Zack explains that that commitment is part of the reason why a (standard) Zack Rabbit Holster Set built stateside costs $60 whereas it might only cost $40 if made in China.

“My father has been manufacturing his potters tools domestically for more than 40 years and has worked with all the same suppliers since the beginning. The business has been a stable source of income for many families over the years, and that contribution is a source of great pride for us,” Zack says. “The tools we produce are inherently more expensive, but it works if you sell a product that saves time and lasts for years … If the tool lasts for 10 years of hard use, the extra $20 really doesn’t matter in the long run.”

Learn more about Zack Rabbit Tools and Accessories by clicking here or the Giffin Grip by clicking here.

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Chris Marshall: Wipe-on finishes such as tung oil are very user-friendly, and they make the process of finishing vertical surfaces like yours more foolproof, too (harder to end up with drips if you wipe off the excess carefully). In terms of options for wiping finishes, however, I think tung oil dries slowly. You’ll also need to apply many coats of it to build the surface to a sheen that resembles other finishes like varnish, shellac or lacquer. So, if you haven’t bought that tung oil yet, let me suggest another option that is just as easy to apply but offers more durability in less time: Watco Danish Oil. Danish oil simply wipes on, and its varnish component forms a film on the wood surface for better protection. You can buy Danish oil without a tint added to it (“Natural”) or in several wood stain colors.

Here’s another “wiping” option that you might not even realize: ordinary oil-based polyurethane. In his “Finishing Thoughts” article for the June 2018 issue of Woodworker’s Journal (“Oil and Wood: A Happy Marriage,” p. 70), Michael Dresdner suggests that unreduced oil-based poly can be scrubbed onto the wood surface with a fine nylon abrasive pad, then the excess wiped off. That will build to a tough, protective film even faster than Danish oil due to the higher concentration of varnish solids.

Tim Inman: You can do this! The first thing to do is think sports: You wouldn’t think about going out on the playing field for a big game or tournament without first having practiced and practiced. You build your skills at practice time so when the big game comes, you’re at the peak of your performance and you’re ready to win. You know the plays, you know the moves, you know the defenses. Finishing is a lot the same. Without first getting ready and practicing before you go out on the field game day, you’re doomed. Practice on scraps. Rehearse behind closed doors. Then go out with your new skills and artistic abilities and kick some butt! Be ready to win. You can do this!

I think selecting a simple finish like an oil for something like shelves is a good choice for you. It is an easier finish to do, with less pitfalls in the waiting, and you are more likely to win and be happy. I hope you’ll be so happy you want to advance and move on to the more exquisite but more complicated finishes. Once you win a little, you’ll want to go back and win a lot more. Fine wood finishing is one of the few places where you can join art, science and skill all together blended into a wonderful final product. Of course, I’m biased but….

I’m not trying to just be corny here. The willingness to practice to improve skills and artistic execution is important. Let me give you two examples to help prove my point. One is a trumpet player. When I was a boy, we lived with an uncle who had a son who was a big band leader. He was nationally known and at the top of his performance peak. We took care of his father, and occasionally the band leader would come home to visit Dad. What impressed me was that EVERY morning, this man would play scales and exercises on his trumpet. They were the same things every morning. Every morning! Even though this man could play in his sleep, and the tunes were like velvet coming out of that horn, he still practiced the basics EVERY morning. That impressed me, a teenage boy, a lot.

The second example is my son, Jon. Jon graduated top of his class in finishing school (wood finishing school, that is). He makes his living as a spot finisher and touchup artist. People, including his dad (me) are impressed with his skills. What isn’t seen by others is that Jon practices just like the trumpet player did. Every morning when Jon would come to work in my shop, he got out his junk cabinet doors and jabbed them up with a chisel – then practiced repairing the damage. He did this every morning he worked for me, and I think he still does it to this day. When people see him work, it looks so easy! Then when they try it themselves, they of course land on their noses. What he doesn’t bother telling them, and he might be disappointed I’m telling you now, is that it doesn’t come free. He practices. So, take a hint. Practice, practice, practice. Then people will start being amazed at how easy your skills make it look!

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The Adaptive Cutting System starts with Kreg’s Plunge Saw and 62-in. aluminum Guide Track. The track guides the saw precisely along a cutline, with a flexible anti-chip strip that protects against splintering to ensure straight, smooth cuts. The Plunge Saw features a fully shrouded blade, plus safety features such as a retractable riving knife, anti-kickback protection and an electronic brake that allow the 12-amp, variable-speed motor to cut safely while your hands stay well away from the blade. The blade will cut materials up to 2-1/8 in. thick, and the saw can be tilted for making bevel cuts ranging from -1 to 47 degrees. A splinter guard on the saw’s shoe, in combination with the Guide Track, helps to further ensure smooth cuts. An included dust bag connects to the saw for onboard dust collection, or you can attach the saw’s dust port to a shop vacuum.

Mounting the Guide Track to Kreg’s Project Table creates a portable cutting system that adapts to your needs. The Project Table’s 29-3/4- x 55-in. MDF top with aluminum perimeter frame includes multiple guides, stops and integrated measuring systems that position materials securely and precisely to deliver accurate, smooth and straight cuts. The Project Table’s heavy-duty steel stand folds to store vertically. Large rubber wheels and folding handles enable the Project Table to be rolled easily in a “hand truck” configuration, wherever you need to work.

The system can be enhanced with optional Parallel Guides and Rip Guides for locking in repeatable measurements when using the track. Or, when using the Plunge Saw off of the Project Table, you can expand the cutting length by connecting additional Guide Tracks with Track Connectors (sold separately).

Kreg has configured the Adaptive Cutting System with many purchasing options, including the ability to buy the saw, guide track, table top or table base as separate components. But the system is centered around three inclusive kits:

• A Master Kit (item ACS3000) includes the Plunge Saw, 62-in. Guide Track, Project Table Top and Project Table Base. It sells for $899.98.

• Or, you can buy just the Plunge Saw + Guide Track Kit (item ACS2000), which comes with the Plunge Saw, 62-in. Guide Track and a storage bag for the saw. It’s priced at $399.99.

• A Project Table Kit (item ACS1000) provides the Project Table Top and Base. It sells for $499.99.

Learn more about Kreg’s Adaptive Cutting System in an informational video by clicking here.

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– Daniel Brenneman
Westville, Oklahoma

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-Michael R. Long
El Paso, Texas

The post Caster Release Tool appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

“You didn’t ask for inputs, but my best ‘stuff left on the car’ story had a happy ending. After weeks of work, I loaded the mesquite and oak dining table I’d made for my daughter (picture attached) into the back of our 2005 Honda CR-V. Even with the base broken down, it was a tight fit and, in the process of sequencing the pieces, I ‘temporarily’ laid the stretcher (oak roughly 2-in. x 6-in. x 5-ft.) on the roof rack. Turning a corner approaching my daughter’s house after 180 miles of highway driving, I heard a clattering noise as the stretcher fell off the roof onto the side of the road. It was scratched up a bit, but the rubber coating on the roof rack crossbars had provided just enough friction to keep it from blowing off. Luckily, I guess I had laid it up there pretty well aligned front to back so the wind resistance area was small. “ – Henry Burks

“Though you didn’t ask for stories of things we forgot and left on the roof of vehicles, I thought I would share one that brought my IQ level down a few points.
Back in college, many moons ago, I took an architectural drafting class working for a degree in drafting. The final for the class was to build a scale model of the wonderful creation my fiance and I had created. As is normal, it came down to an all-nighter before final review. Early class time, of course. With the sun up and much coffee, I left with my not-quite-complete creation balanced in hand and went to my car. I think you see what’s coming. I placed my model on the car roof as I got the rest of my things in the car. I hurried to leave and realized my mistake when I saw the model fly by my rearview mirror and crash to the street. I picked up pieces of it and my pride and continued to class. My tale of woe did little to appease my instructor, though he did get a good laugh from it. Failed the class, but made it up next semester. Hope you got a chuckle from my story. I had all but forgotten that incident till I read your article. So thanks a lot.” – David Routt

But it’s worked out pretty well for some readers who have been on the other side of these incidences. – Editor

“I think I found your DeWalt driver about four years ago. I was driving back to the house after picking up breakfast at one of the local fast food places and there, in the middle of the four-lane, was a DeWalt driver. Of course I stopped and picked it up. I had to order a charger, but not a bad deal for what is now one of my favorite tools. Thanks. Wish I had known it was yours sooner, but you know about possession being nine-tenths of the law and such.” – Charles Buster

“Laughing with you, not at you. And yes, I have those days too, and so do other people. In fact, that is how I found the battery-powered reciprocating saw on the highway (no name inside). Anyway, really enjoy the Journal. Keep up the good work.” – Skip Landis

“Stuff you find on the street that belongs to someone else: I was in San Diego for a Monday morning meeting. Traffic down the 15 freeway is always unpredictable, so left early and got there early. I turned into a Denny’s and in the parkway next to the entrance was a briefcase in the grass. I picked up the fairly expensive case and, after placing it on the passenger’s seat, opened it. I was ready for plastic bags full of white powder, but instead, there were business cards and literature and something more valuable than drugs: customer lists with spending and discount details — a district salesman’s roster, with personal information including  Social Security numbers and health history; a price list with cost figures; and a payroll master for the company. I called the fellow and told him I had found the case and how should I return it. He told me not to bother. Throw the contents in the trash and keep the briefcase if I wanted it. He had been fired Friday and he had stopped at Denny’s to use the bathroom and became so irate, he shoved the briefcase out the passenger side window onto the parkway Monday morning on the way to a job interview with another company. Apparently, this fellow was doing a good job, but the president had a relative who needed a source of income. It doesn’t take long to figure out what happened. I never found a DeWalt battery drill or a laptop. Life happens.” – Bruce Adams

Several people shared some advice: put stuff on the hood of your car. – Editor

“I feel your pain. I am retired from law enforcement, and now more devoted to my woodworking. As you can imagine, the patrol car is the office of the street cop. I lost a couple clipboards early in my career. As a veteran officer, I became a field training officer (one of the most challenging jobs in LE). Having learned the hard way, I always taught my rookies that if you insist on setting anything on the outside of your patrol car, there is only one place that is marginally acceptable, and that is right in front of the driver side on the hood where you can see it if you get in to drive off. I’m glad you got at least one of your items back.  That’s the sort of thing that can help restore one’s faith in humanity. I’m afraid it’s a real challenge for a street cop to retain any such ‘faith.’ Anyway, I enjoy reading your articles and find woodworking to be far more cathartic than police work, though I did enjoy my career.” – Michael Gilbert, Sgt. (retired)

“That is the reason when I am putting groceries or anything in my truck, or car, I always set it on the hood. Coffee or other drinks, food, etc.  I always set it on the hood so that if I get in my truck and didn’t grab it, I can see it on the hood. I have not driven off with a drink or food etc. on the hood of my truck. On the roof, it is out of sight and out of mind. Just a little tip I learned after my lone brain cell lit up, after losing drinks, food, etc. that was put on the roof of my truck while opening the door.” – R. Kimberly

“Here is a tip I learned many years ago: Don’t put something on top of the vehicle! Put it on the hood in front of you. It is a lot harder to drive off if it is where you can see it.” – Jesse Lee

And some were just amused at Rob’s expense. – Editor

“Isn’t dementia fun? Old age: the time of your life when you can hide your own Easter eggs and then try to find them again.” – R.L. Hoyle

The post Don’t Put Stuff on the Roof of Your Car … appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

In this video, I’m going to show you how to build one of these chairs. You can also find the measured drawings and a complete build article in the April 2019 issue of Woodworker’s Journal. This spring, Rockler will also be selling the published plans, a set of templates for the curved parts and a hardware kit at Rockler.com.

We’ll start the process by building the seat assembly, so cut a couple of blanks for these back legs from 1-1/2″-thick stock.

Here I’m plotting points on a grid of 1″ squares on one of the leg blanks, then connecting the points with straight lines and a French curve to draw the first leg. When that’s done, cut out the leg and sand the cut edges flat and smooth.

Now go ahead and trace the first leg onto the second leg blank and cut it to rough shape, just outside of your layout lines. Then, attach the two legs together, face to face, with double-sided tape. Trim the second leg to match the first leg using a long bearing-guided flush-trim bit in your handheld router or on a router table.

Mark both back legs for these bolts here that will attach the front legs and allow these parts to pivot. Drill these 5/16″-dia. through bolt holes at a drill press, if possible, so these holes will be square to the leg faces.

Next up, we’re going to head to the table saw to cut dadoes into the back legs for these three parts: a rear seat stretcher, these backrest pivots and these backrest stops.

I’ve got one of the legs dadoed already so we can take a closer look. The whole dadoed area is 6” wide, and I start by cutting all of it 1/4” deep. Then I raise the blade to 3/4” to cut this 3”-wide center dado.

I make all of these cuts with my leg workpieces held against a long, stiff fence on my saw’s miter gauge for stability. And, this bottom “seat portion” of the leg goes against the miter gauge fence for every cut so these dadoes remain square to this front bottom edge. I’ve got it identified with a piece of tape here so I don’t forget which of these two bottom edges needs to stay against the fence.

When the dadoing is finished, file or sand the sharp back corners of the legs round, ease the long sharp edges and finish-sand the legs to 180 grit.

And now we can connect the legs with a couple of seat stretchers — a wider one in back that fits into the front-most dado we just cut, and this one, right here. So, go ahead and make up these parts. Then fasten the legs to the two stretchers with pairs of 3″ counterbored exterior screws to form the seat framework. Install the rear seat stretcher in the narrow, front-most leg dadoes.

We’ll fill the other wide and narrow dadoes in the legs with these two parts: a backrest pivot and a backrest stop. These backrest pivots have a 4-1/2″-wide lapped area here, milled 3/4″ deep into their outside faces. When these lap fits into the leg dadoes, it enables the pivots to install flush with the faces of the legs, like this

Cut these laps on a band saw, with a wide dado blade or a straight bit in the router table. Now cut the top ends of the pivots into 1-1/2″ radii and smooth the curves. Then bore a 7/8″-dia. counterbore, 3/8″ deep, into the outside face of each pivot at the centerpoint of the curves you just cut, followed by a 5/16″ bolt hole centered in the counterbore.

Sand the two pivots, ease their sharp edges and attach them to the legs like I’m doing here with waterproof wood glue and four counterbored screws. Then make up these backrest stops and install them in their dadoes so their top rounded end is are flush with the top edges of the legs.

We can wrap up work on our seat base by installing these seat slats. I want to point out a couple of things about them, so let’s take a closer look. As you can see here, I first rounded the corners of my seat slats and knocked off the sharp top edges with a 1/4” roundover bit in my router. And that will help prevent splinters.

I also drilled these pairs of screw pilot holes at my drill press, before installing the slats, to keep the screw patterns evenly spaced and straight. Counterbore these holes so you can cover the screw heads with wood plugs.

To install them, butt the rearmost slat against the backrest pivots, and space the slats about 5/16″ apart — some dowels or wood scraps can make this easy to do. Then extend the screw pilot holes from the slats into the legs, and fasten the slats with 2″ exterior screws.

That takes care of the seat portion of this project, so now we can move on to the fold-down backrest. We’ll start with these two long backrest supports here, so make up those blanks. Each one requires a long slot near the bottom so the backrest can slide up, like this, to set the chair up or fold it down. We’ll cut these slots at the router table with a 5/16”-dia. straight or spiral bit.

Now I’ve got my router table set up to make these slot cuts, with the bit’s cutting limits marked with tape on the table. I’ve already got one slot cut on these backrest supports to show you what we’re doing. Clearly, it’s a centered slot, and it goes all the way through the thick workpiece. Now, these supports are pretty thick at 1-1/2 in., but you don’t need an overly long bit to make these cuts. Here’s the trick!

For each bit height setting, make two passes instead of just one, flipping the workpiece end for end and keeping the same edge against the fence. This way, you can cut the slot in from both faces to speed the process along. But remember, make sure to keep the same edge against the fence. As long as your bit can cut to at least half the thickness of the workpiece, you can cut these centered slots without buying an overly long bit.

This is also a good time to drill a bolt hole in each support for attaching the back ends of the arms, later. Complete the supports by rounding their bottom corners with 5/8″ radii to provide clearance for pivoting.

The backrest of the chair also requires these two horizontal crosspieces. And they’re curved along this front edge to make the chair back more comfortable to lean against. So, make up one, then template-rout the second one to match it, just like you did for the back legs.

Here at the bench, I’ve got the backrest framework clamped together so I can check its fit on the seat assembly. You want this framework to slide in between the leg pivots without binding. If the fit is too tight, trim the crosspieces a little bit shorter, clamp it up and try the fit again. When the framework fits correctly, finish-sand the parts and fasten the crosspieces between the supports with 3″-long counterbored exterior screws.

With the seatback framework assembled, we can move on to making the back slats. Now, you can see that there are two narrow ones on the outside and five wider ones in between. So make up blanks for them all, and cut the top ends of these narrower slats round. These five wide slats share a 10″-radius, and here’s how to lay that out.

Here, I’ve got all seven slats clamped together and up against this clamped, flat scrap to keep the bottom ends lined up. I’ve also got 1/4″ spacers in between each slat. I’ve drawn a center line down the middle slat, and marked a pivot point 10″ in from the top end. That way, I can use a large compass or these trammel points set for 10 inches to draw that curve.

Cut the slat curves at the band saw, then ease their sharp corners. Round over the front edges to prevent splinters, and sand them smooth.

Here I’ve got my back slats ready to install on the backrest framework. You can see that I’ve got the spacers in place between them again, and a couple of layout lines here and here so the screws will be centered on the crosspieces. And I’ve pre-drilled counterbores for the installation screws. I’ve also got a couple of scraps clamped together down here so that all of the slats will line up along the bottom evenly. And you’ve got a pin or brad nailer, I’ve found it helpful to tack all of the slats to keep them from moving around as you’re driving the attachment screws.

Fasten the slats with 2” exterior screws. Notice that the hole positions are offset on the narrow slats in order to avoid the screw locations where the backrest supports and crosspieces connect.

Well, we’re making great progress on this chair, and there’s only a few more parts to make before this chair will be ready for finish! So, next up: the front legs. Notice on the bottom ends that they have a centered slot so the seat can move up or down for setup. Go ahead and rout these slots, just like you did for the backrest supports.

Here I’ve got one of the legs already completed so I can point out a few important details, and the first one is this 3/4”-dia. counterbore right here. This counterbore is a safety feature: it locks these knobs from Rockler into the top of the slot so the seat can’t fall down if the knobs loosen up a little bit. If this were just a slot, all that would hold the seat up is the knob and bolt tension, but this recess provides an important mechanical stop. Bore these knob recesses 1/4″ deep at the drill press, centering the counterbore on the radius of the slot’s top curve.

Another point of note on the front legs are these 1-1/2” radii curves at the top back corners. They enable the legs to pivot backwards for folding up or setting up the chair. But this square corner prevents them from rotating forwards. Lay these curves — one for the left leg, like this, and one for the right leg, like this — and band saw them to shape.

Now switch to 7/8” bit and drill a 5/8”-deep counterbore and a through bolt hole near the top of each leg where the legs will connect to the chair’s arms. Then, round over the bottom corners of the legs with 5/8” radii. Sand all the leg curves smooth, and ease their sharp edges.

If you buy Rockler’s templates for this project, you’ll get one to draw these shapes. Or, you can lay it out on your own, using our gridded drawings in our published plans in Woodworker’s Journal magazine. Whichever route you take, saw one arm to shape, and template-rout the second one to match the first.

The arms of the chair require two of these pivot blocks apiece to attach them to the chair and allow for rotation. I’ve got this pair shaped, counterbored, drilled and ready to cut to final length. I find that it’s often easer and safer to make small parts like these from a longer workpiece, to start with.

Both pivot blocks for each arm are located along this inside flat edge, but their counterbores face in opposite directions. The rear pivot block’s counterbore faces the outside, curved edge of the arm, and the front pivot block’s counterbore faces inward. Install the pivot blocks on the arms with pairs of 2″ counterbored exterior screws. Then ease the top sharp edges of both arms with a 1/4” roundover bit.

All that’s left to do now is bolt the chair together, plug the screw holes and apply some finish! Start by installing carriage bolts, big fender washers and knobs to attach the backrest to the seat assembly. Then attach an arm to each leg with a carriage bolt, a washer and nylon lock nut in the top leg counterbores. Don’t overtighten these nuts. Just snug them up lightly. You want the parts to rotate freely. Now slip these front leg assemblies onto long carriage bolts in the back legs here, and thread a knob into that recess at the top of the front leg slots. Finally, attach the rear ends of the arms to the backrest with more carriage bolts, washers and nylon lock nuts.

Go ahead and check the folding action of the chair. If it functions properly, it’s time to fill all of these counterbores with wood plugs, so you can move on to finishing.

I’m keeping the finish on this chair as simple and easy to refinish as possible! I’m just applying a coat of semi-transparent, oil-based deck and siding stain with UV inhibitors added. And when the stain dries, I’ll bolt the chair back together, and it will be ready for use.

I hope this video will encourage you to build a couple of these chairs for your yard! It’s a fun project to build, and at the end of the season, they’ll be a whole lot easier to store! Remember, you can find this project in our April 2019 issue of Woodworker’s Journal Magazine. Or, buy the project plans, templates and hardware from rockler.com. I’m Chris Marshall with Woodworker’s Journal, and thanks for watching!

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