(He’s also still proud of being the first wood artist to contribute to the artists registry portion of the National September 11 Memorial and Museum. Ramon’s piece, U.S. Commemorative Wall Plaque, is included in the online database and virtual gallery of artistic work created in response to the events of September 11, 2001.)

Also a portrait artist, Ramon works closely with a few interior decorators and designers in the area of his Ohio home, offering both personalized portraits and the customizable jewelry furniture band saw boxes to their clients. “If you wanted something in a particular shade, or wood, or if you wanted it shaped in a certain way, like a heart, for example, you know; if you wanted like an image of a loved one or an animal or something embedded inside of it, you cannot get that from a Walmart or even a Macy’s for that matter,” Ramon said. “This is the garage woodworker that’s capable of doing that kind of thing.”

Ramon himself does do his woodworking out of his garage – which is why, he says, the cold months are a good time for him to have downtime that coincides with that of the interior decorators he works with. Many of his works have been commssions for them, while others, “there’s some that I actually made just for the hey of it,” he said.

He got started with the jewelry furniture after submitting a few pieces to a University of Cincinnati exhibition with the theme of “furniture.” Those boxes were styled to resemble various styles of desks, such as a rolltop desk and a secretary style desk.

“Everything’s fully functional” in those pieces meant to mimic furniture, Ramon said, noting that many of his pieces also have hidden drawers. Several others also have what he refers to as a “jewelry lay.” “The jewelry lay is simple a contour piece of wood,” Ramon said. “Many times, it’ll slide under the box itself, and it’s just something to lay the watch on, or the necklace or bracelet. Whenever possible, based on the design [of the box], I’ll make one with it.”

As for those designs, although they feature many curves, Ramon notes that, “ I don’t use roundover bits. All of my curves, transitional curves and compound curves, are actually done by hand. I may use a grinder to hog out; in different situations, I might break out a Dremel [rotary tool], but I can’t get it smooth with either one of them. I’ll get close with the band saw, but pretty much, I’m going in with hand.”

During that process, Ramon notes, “I actually only use primarily two grits of sandpaper: either a 60 or 80 on the coarse end and 120 to 150 on the fine end. It’s just simply a matter of how much pressure you push; you don’t need the whole full range of sandpaper to make it happen.”

Another factor in why he prefers not to use extremely fine sandpaper, Ramon said, is that he believes some of the stains he likes to use will not be absorbed into the wood.

For instance, for a couple of recent projects, pieces called “Memories” and “Yesteryear,” he used a staining process with vinegar and steel wool. “I purposefully did that because I wanted them to have more of an old, nostalgic look,” Ramon said. “What my technique is, I put [steel wool] in a container, a lidded container that has holes in the lid, because as it oxidizes, that steel wool is going to create a gas. And put straws down in it to keep the steel wool submerged because if it reaches top, that’s what will discolor it or create a rust or red cast. If the steel wool is held down under, it will keep a grayish or black cast. “

Ramon notes that he mixes “distilled vinegar and [distilled] water — the water that doesn’t have anything it it. You don’t need much and, after you put it on, literally within a few minutes, it begins to discolor. You could actually do multiple applications to get it darker and darker.”

In this case, Ramon applied two coats of the steel wool/vinegar stain to his pieces, then went back over them with the finer of his sandpaper grits, and finished up with a coat of shellac.

When it comes to the finishes he chooses or his woodworking in general, Ramon said, “you can create what’s considered a signature stamp, so that when somebody looks at your work, they recognize it before they see your branding iron or your name on it. But the other reason that you want to go that route is it makes it easier, and it makes it more enjoyable.

“When you can develop techniques, methods of doing things, then there’s much more enjoyment in it and you’re more apt to stick with it. Call me old-fashioned, but I think, had I not continued to do things the way I wanted to develop them, I probably would have given up.”

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Standing 10-3/8 in. tall and weighing under 4-1/2 lbs., the light’s compact design and plastic top handle make it easier to transport. A 4-1/4-in.-long metal hanging hook inverts the light for overhead lighting needs. Its high-impact polycarbonate lens will withstand tough jobsite situations, and the internal LEDs never need to be replaced.

The M18 RADIUS Compact Site Light w/ Flood Mode (model 2144-20) will operate on any Milwaukee M18 battery, but none are included. It sells for $149.

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Seneca Woodworking’s Stowaway Dogs are CNC machined from aircraft-grade aluminum to precise tolerances. Sized for 20mm dog holes on the Festool MFT table, these dogs have a shallow inset that allows them to protrude 1/2 in. above the top of the table when fully seated. They’re available in packs of two with either a clear or black anodized finish for $26.95. Or, you can buy four-packs in clear, black, red, blue or green finishes that come in a foam-lined plastic storage box for $49.95.

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Rob Johnstone: I am sorry, Ed; sanding is the only real solution if you want the hardwood to look like a traditional wood floor. And that goes for the parquet floor as well. With that as the best solution, you might get away with washing it with a good scrubbing, and then putting a very dark stain on it like a General Finishes “Java” gel stain, then a couple of coats of poly. Super dark floors are all the rage these days, and the Java covers a multitude of sins. What it won’t cover is where the old finish has completely worn away: if you can see the transition between the old finish and bare wood, that will likely be visible after the stain and finish treatment. You might get away with “area” sanding on those regions and then the Java/poly treatment.

Chris Marshall: I agree with Rob about sanding. Sanding the entire floor will both remove the foot traffic damage and blend that area into the rest of the floor to create a uniform, bare wood surface for refinishing. Whether you choose to then stain and refinish the floor or just refinish it with a polyurethane topcoat, the way to achieve consistent color and ensure that the new finish will adhere properly will depend on starting with a good “substrate” of clean, bare wood. Whole floor sanding won’t be the low-cost, fast solution, of course but it’s the best long-term improvement. And, great-looking hardwood floors will attract tenants. It’s an investment on your investment.

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I am 86 years old and am legally blind, but still work in my shop nearly every day. My wife says I am too stubborn to give up. With my limited vision the old saying “measure twice, cut once” takes on a whole new meaning.

– James Sahli
Othello, WA

See the Gallery Below:

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We heard from some readers who had things to say about woodworking with mesquite. – Editor

“Just wanted to show you a couple of pens made with mesquite and our great room with walls and floor of mesquite. Took two years to do this room and you’re right, whatever is left over goes to the barbeque pit.” – Mario Barrera

“In Texas, mesquite wood is a large pain in the rear as it grows everywhere you don’t want it to grow, but it is as beautiful to work in projects as it is to cook with on the grill or smoker. It has lovely red grain and is hard but easy to work. The only thing that I don’t like is how the red color loses the color as it ages into a brown but still beautiful finish. The crotch wood is the best grain.” – Wes Barton

“That mesquite you are using for small projects will twist and crack as it dries just like eucalyptus wood. Whether a small project or a large project, work it early and seal it completely, or let it dry so it can be trued, worked and sealed. I have a live-edge mantel that dried for three years before final sawing, planing and sealing–still true but requires maintenance since it is mounted on an outside fireplace with UV exposure. And yup, mesquite is a smoking favorite, except for tea-smoked duck or any seafood — too strong for delicate flavors for my taste.” – John Wurtz

“Use a good dust mask when you work with mesquite or ironwood . I lived in Arizona and worked both of them. I had been warned about them beforehand so wore good masks. They both have some bad stuff in them. I also made myself a carbide turning tool out of a brake drum turning tool. That was back in the 80’s before we could buy them.” Lowell Taylor

“If you plan on working your mesquite, also plan on sharpening your tools. Mesquite holds a lot of sand and other foreign stuff as it grows. I have worked quite a bit of the nasty stuff. It is pretty but very bad on edges. Best use for it is in your barbecue.” – Robert Moniasque

One who criticized Rob’s geography. – Editor

“I do not know who Rob’s Texas host was, but the Hill Country of Texas is not South Texas. It is Central Texs. As far I am concerned, south Texas begins on a line below Corpus Christi, Texas to Laredo,Texas.” – Ken Steed

And many who had a lot to say about what woods are good to barbecue with. Several were in favor of mesquite. – Editor

“Having grown up in West Texas, I am very familiar with using mesquite to grill steaks.  I live in Las Vegas now, but my friends back home still use it. You have to let it burn down to a bed of coals if you’re using mesquite alone (it burns very hot), or use a few chips or chunks added to regular charcoal. I suppose the non-purists have even found ways to use it with gas grills. Oak is another excellent choice, along with the ash and cherry you mentioned. Hickory, obviously. I think pretty much any fruitwood should work. Nothing oily or exotic.” – Steve Dragg

In regards to your question about leftover wood for grilling, being from Texas, the mesquite is a great choice for cooking and woodworking. Along with your other choices, pecan is another great flavoring choice as well as a woodworking choice. I turned a small mallet for chisels and such and it is hard enough to hold up.” – Jim Sanders

“I enjoyed reading your article about your visit to south Texas. I live in north Texas and love to cook and eat Texas barbecue — any barbecue, for that matter. Mesquite is a good cooking wood for steak, chicken and fajitas. But my favorite woods for smoking have to be oak, pecan and hickory. As for turning mesquite. I have turned some pens in mesquite. They turn out pretty good, but the wood I had just didn’t have much character. Nice nevertheless. Keep up the great work!” – David Moore

“Being from Texas, I totally agree with you. I save all my mesquite, maple, cherry, pecan, and red oak scraps for my smoker. Of course, mesquite is my favorite. A word of caution: mesquite burns hot and too much of it will impart a bitter flavor into your meat. That will only happen if you use it as your primary heat source.  I don’t believe that’s what you are planning on doing. Keep using these woods and before long you will season your grill to give you that wonderful wood flavor. That’s why I never clean the inside of the lid.” – Norm Nichols

“Smoking: Mesquite is by far the best all-around wood for smoking, especially for beef and poultry. I occasionally use apple or cherry for pork to add a little ‘sweetness.’” – Carey P. Page, M.D.

While others disdain it as an inferior wood for barbecue. – Editor

“Live oak is often the preferred smoking wood in the Texas Hill Country. I once asked a barbecue restaurateur in Medina, Texas, if he uses mesquite and he seemed insulted and quick to tell me he uses nothing but live oak. I learned something that day. I just researched this on a Texas barbecue blog and saw an entry saying the Salt Lick (Driftwood, Texas) uses nothing but live oak also. Been there, very good, very popular! Luckily I have several live oaks here, but I infrequently trim a lower branch from one of my pecan trees (southeast Louisiana location) and only use it as a flavoring wood, not as my main source of coals.” – Curlie Jay

“I have never been one to burn up construction grade wood in a smoker. Larger pieces of wood left over from my projects stay on the shelf awaiting later use in building. I vaguely remember that I have them, and when the opportunity presents itself they often get hunted up and actually used. Mesquite is one of those woods grossly overrated for barbecue cooking. The only good smoke woods for meat are oak and cherry.” – Moh Clark

Several readers also suggested a variety of woods for use in the smoker. – Editor

“Pecan is a cousin of hickory and is good in the smoker. I’ve used a lot of cutoffs in the smoker. Still have some left over from this butler pantry, but my supply is running short.” – Paul Saladin

“In response to your question of smoking wood scraps, I have done this for years. A friend also gets a lot of the scrap to use in his Green Egg. Woods I have used are oak, walnut (sparingly), ash, cherry, and mesquite. I avoid using any with glue or finish on them. Why not use them? They are probably ‘safer’ than many of the bagged smoking wood sold at the local store.” – Bob Ebbeson

“I use leftover cherry and oak all the time to add good smoke flavor to meat. If I make the trip to my daughter’s place in Astoria, I will grab small pieces of alder branches with the bark still on and use that as well. Alder is great with steaks. Doesn’t take much. While I’ve tried maple, it doesn’t seem to add as much flavor. But it does make nice coals. Mesquite, if I could get it from the ground, would be awesome, but up here in the Pacific Northwest, I have to buy it in a bag, as coals.” – Steve Kendall

“I like pecan to smoke with.”  – Mike Perry

“I always save cherry for barbeque. Hickory, oak, even walnut works well. Don’t forget the cedar for grilling a salmon.” – Steven First

“Pecan shells soaked in water.” – Stuart Baker

“I haven’t purchased smoking chips in years. I had the ‘good fortune’ of losing a cherry tree to a storm a few years ago. All of it has gone to the lathe, to boxes or to the smoker. I’m now carefully watching an old apple tree that’s splitting and leaning.” – Milton Davis

“Just about any fruitwood. Whenever I turn fruit or some nut woods, I put the cutoffs and shavings in a bag for the smoker.  Apple, cherry, pecan, mesquite, hickory, even did a little peach once. Typically fruit for pork and others for beef.” – Bill Neff

“I save the shavings and sprinkle them when I grill.” – John Carpenter

“I will never have to buy wood for my smoker again. I don’t throw away any wood scraps from deciduous trees as long as they don’t have any type of finish on them. I’ll cut them down to pieces that will lay on the heating coil of my electric smoker. My favorites are cherry for poultry and red oak for just about everything else. I kept the scraps from the hickory wood floor that I put down in my den. Hickory is a good wood for ribs and most pork. I built a cabinet a few years ago from alder and saved the scraps. Alder is a must for seafood, especially salmon. Walnut adds a bit of a bitter taste to roasts and large pieces of meat. It’s pretty strong. It’s fun to experiment with other woods also. To each his own. I’ll also take a variety of woods and put them into plastic bags and share them with friends who also smoke foods. Living in New Mexico assures me that I’ll never run out of mesquite.” – Jack Dobrian

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