Many corded power tools these days have variable-speed triggers and soft start features, to eliminate those “jackrabbit” starts — but certainly not all of them. And, if you still use your trusty older power tools without the updated electronics, there hasn’t been a practical solution to those jerky, hard starts.

That is, until now.

Last month, a new device called Soft Starter came to market that’s designed to help tame your more “spirited” power tools at startup. It’s a finned aluminum cylinder with a length of power cord on either end that plugs into the wall and your power tool’s cord. Will Hansen, inventor of Soft Starter, says the development process started in 2016 when he founded Raymond Innovations in Rapid City, South Dakota.

“I became mildly obsessed with finding a solution to the ‘hand grenade’ that was my compound miter saw when I squeezed the trigger,” Hansen recalls.

With degrees in electronics and biomedical equipment technology, and a career in clinical engineering, Hansen was confident that he could find a solution to what he calls the “obnoxious attribute” of universal-motor start-ups. In layperson terms, that sudden burst of power causing the tool to jerk is a 40 to 60 amp inrush of electrical current.

Aside from the unsettling effect of feeling it happen when you squeeze the trigger, Hansen says there are long-term consequences to the tool. “The inrushing current arcs and causes pitting on the power switch contacts,” he says. “The higher the current, the worse the pitting. Over time, this pitting gets bad enough that the switch will fail to transfer electricity through it, and the tool won’t turn on.”

This explains why mechanical power switches are one of the leading failure points on universal-motor power tools, Hansen explains. His solution was to add a resistive load to the power cord, which happens inside Soft Starter’s finned heat exchanger.

“The resistance value of this load rapidly drops to near zero as the internal temperature of Soft Starter increases: resistance creates heat, and heat, in turn causes resistance to decrease,” Hansen says. “Our Soft Starter will reduce the inrush current and pitting by up to 83 percent.”

Once a tool is plugged into Soft Starter, it will come up to speed more slowly and gracefully, eliminating that unpleasant jerk. But, are there other noticeable differences in how it affects the power tool? Hansen says, in most cases, no. Really sensitive tool users might be able to notice a slight reduction of power when using the tool for demanding, power-hungry tasks.

“Technically,” Hansen clarifies, “ the maximum current power loss incurred is less than the power loss from a 20-ft. extension cord.”

Speaking of extension cords, Soft Starters can be used with them. Hansen says a Soft Starter can be installed anywhere along the line between the tool and the wall receptacle, including on either end of an extension cord.

The device is also compact and unobtrusive: the 4-in.-long, under-2-in.-dia. heat exchanger and 16-in. length of power cord tethered to it weighs 13.4 ounces. But, there are a couple of operational caveats to the “A10” — Soft Starter’s current model iteration. First, the aluminum cylinder builds up heat during use, and the temperature will continue to rise during tool operation.

“We’ve established a 5-minute maximum runtime from cold to protect Soft Starter’s cord insulation,” Hansen says. So, the A10 is designed for intermittent use. If you’re planning to use your router or universal-motor table saw or planer for extended periods, it should be used separately from Soft Starter.

Second, the device is designed for 120-volt, universal motors only. Tools with induction motors (such as found on most stationary machines — if it’s wired for 220 volts or can be re-wired for 220, it’s an induction motor) aren’t suitable for Soft Starter.

Hansen and his team are working on eight more versions of Soft Starter now, including the “A10E.” It will have no runtime limitation and can provide a full soft start cycle every one to two minutes, Hansen says. “The A10E will be more costly (than the A10) but better suited for jobsites or heavy-use tools.”

He hopes to have the A10E available by Fall 2019.

The A10 Soft Starter sells for $29.99 and is backed by a limited lifetime warranty. It can be purchased on the company’s website (www.thesoftstarter.com) or its Facebook page. You’ll also find an A10 demonstration video there. Hansen says Soft Starter will soon be available through other e-commerce sites as well, when dealer channels for retailers are finalized.

Soft Starter’s “plug and play” ability to extend tool longevity, while making power tools less threatening and more comfortable to use, are its core benefits. Hansen is also pleased that he’s developed an American-made, “noninvasive” solution that anyone can install, at a price that won’t be a burden for most tool users.

“An affordable price point of $30 or less has been a top priority for the A10 since the very beginning,” Hansen says. “We are thrilled that we have been able to maintain this and provide such a great value.”

To learn more about Soft Starter, click here.

The post Soft Starter for Power Tools appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Tim Inman: I would advise against attempting to bond or glue the lock parts to the table. It will not be successful over the long haul. Plus, when the bond fails, you’ll then have an even bigger mess to clean up and try again.

I have seen this type of damage many times over the years. Almost certainly, the problem is rooted not in the stress applied to the lock, but to the lack of a proper pilot hole drilled into the wood in the first place. Walnut and maple split like crazy. If the screws are “bullied” into a too-small pilot hole, or no pilot hole at all, the wood will split. So what to do now? First, make sure the pilot hole is big enough for the screws you intend to use! Second, and I have had great results doing this: fortify the screw hole with a bonding adhesive. I like to use water-thin CA glue for this. Apply a small drop or two to the empty hole, and watch it leach into the wood like magic. Once it permeates into the wood fibers, it will harden. This gives a very strong and repaired socket hole to accept the wood screw. Since the wood screw threads are probably already compressed into the wood fibers, it is almost like making a hard-tapped wood thread. You could also use an epoxy if that is all you have available. It would be my second choice. Giving the screws a little coat of soap or oil will make it easier for the next guy to unscrew the latch in the future. Otherwise, you risk welding the screws into the wood — not good….

Chris Marshall: I love Tim’s advice here — practical and easy! I’ll offer an additional suggestion. If the old screw holes are worn overly large, I’d probably fill them with a sliver of wood and then drill new pilot holes. I’d start by clamping across the wood part’s thickness to keep the wood from splitting further, and bond the splits with CA as Tim recommends. When that cures, I’d keep the clamp in place and drive the sliver into the old pilot hole. The sliver could be a bit of a wooden golf tee, a matchstick, bamboo skewer, or whatever is small enough to fit the hole. Glue the sliver in with more CA glue. Now drill a pilot hole (large enough, of course!) right into the sliver, and thread the screw in again. It’s an old DIY fix, but it works well!

I shot a video of repairing screw holes a while back for our magazine. Click here to watch it.

The post Fixing Cracked Screw Holes? appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The 20V MAX* XR Brushless 5-in. Random Orbit Sander includes an easy-to-reach speed dial with speeds ranging from 8,000 to 12,000 orbits per minute. A dual sealed switch helps prevent dust ingestion for longer switch life. The sander uses a replaceable eight-hole hook-and-loop sanding pad and weighs 1.9 pounds. A one-handed locking dust bag features an AirLock connection to attach to DeWALT dust collectors (sold separately). The 20V MAX* XR Brushless 5-in. Random Orbit Sander is available as a bare tool (model DCW210B) for $119, kitted with a 2.0 amp-hour battery (model DCW210D1) for $199 or kitted with a 5.0 amp-hour battery (model DCW210P1) for $249.

The 20V MAX* XR Brushless Jigsaw features a 1-in. stroke length, four-position orbital action and an all-metal, lever-action keyless blade clamp for quick and easy blade changes. The shoe bevel, also keyless, has detents set at 0, 15 and 30 degrees and a positive stop at 45 degrees. Blade speed can reach 3,200 strokes per minute; the jigsaw accepts T-shank blades. An LED light illuminates the work surface, while a removable shoe cover protects materials against scratches. An integrated dust blower helps remove dust and debris from your line of sight as you cut. The 20V MAX* Brushless Jigsaw comes kitted with a 5.0 amp-hour battery (model DCS334M1) for $329 or as a bare tool (model DCS334B) for $179. A barrel-grip version will be available in January.

The post DeWALT 20V MAX* Brushless Duo appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

-John L. Cusimano
Lansdale, Pennsylvania

The post Floor Tile Provides Dead-flat Sharpening Surface appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

-Charles Mak
Calgary, Alberta

The post Mortiser Chisel Spacer appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

“I understand completely. In October, I had all kinds of ideas, but then November hit [and] the temperature dropped to the point it was too cold to work in the shop. Maybe next year I’ll start in July.” – Walter Hayes

“I have promised many a project to various family members. Whenever they remind me of them, I flip out my phone and show them my retirement countdown timer.” – Lee Ohmart

“Boy am I slow! I finally caught on to the ‘river in Egypt.’ I love a good pun. You have now motivated me to get back in the shop and finish those projects I’ve (almost) started.” – Ed Amsbury

The post Holiday Gifts: Still in the Concept Stage appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Step 2. Apply the band saw box pattern to the surface of the blank using spray adhesive.

Step 3. Cut the outside of the box clear of the blank, staying just outside of the line. Keep part of the blank to make the base later.

Step 4. Sand the cirular box cutout smooth.

Step 5. Cut out one of the drawer pieces following the line indicated on the pattern.

Step 6. Glue the drawer opening’s saw kerf closed, use packing tape as a clamp.

Step 7. Slice the drawer face and back of the drawer piece.

Step 8. Sketch the approximate waste area onto the drawer core (see the pattern). It need not be exact.

Step 9. Remove the drawer waste.

Step 10. Glue the drawer face and back onto the remaining drawer core material.

Step 11. Repeat steps 5 through 10 for the second drawer.

Step 12. Sand the drawers and box after the glue has cured. Set them aside for now.

Step 13. Form the base from the material you set aside. Sand it smooth.

Step 14. Glue the box and drawer assembly onto the drawer base.

Step 15. Apply finish to the band saw box components.

Step 16. (Optional) Drill shallow accent holes on the drawer faces. Color the holes with a marker or stain.

Step 17. (Optional) Glue a cloth lining into the drawer cavities.

Download the band saw box pattern.

The post Band Saw Box Basics appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.