The International Woodworking Camp, scheduled for July 14-21, 2018, came about after Andres Rattasepp, who will be leading a workshop on Estonian style birch bark satchels during the camp, attended a similar experience focused on other crafts and thought that creating a camp focused on woodworking would be a good idea.

“Estonia is so small that basically everyone in the area know each other,” organizer Marit Külv said of the Baltic country with an estimated population of 1,300,000 located across a gulf from Finland, noting that many of the contacts for workshop leaders and organizers for the woodworking camp came from local cultural centers and vocational schools. Marit herself has been one of the organizers of the craft camp which originally inspired the woodworking camp.

Estonians like to think of themselves as a forest nation; “Estonian native woodworking can be described by the principle that nothing got wasted or thrown away. All the parts of the tree were used,” Marit said. For example, basswood and willow cambium were used in previous centuries for weaving peasant shoes, and roots, such as spruce roots, were used for basketry and sewing bark containers.

The goal of the organization created to sponsor the camp, NGO Woodworking Camp, is to revive Estonian native woodworking among both native Estonians and internationally – people from both areas are invited to and expected to attend the camp.

A variety of workshops during the camp will introduce Estonian folk woodworking, with master woodworkers sharing their knowledge and skills. Among the workshop subjects are bent wood boxes, with a comparison of the techniques used in Estonia and in neighboring countries; birch bark satchels; folk instruments, which will include making a shepherd’s horn; and sharpening woodworking tools such an axe, knife, chisel and hand plane blade.

Additionally, the camp will feature a workshop on carving Belarus-style spoons, taught by Belarus master Vladimir Chikvin. The workshop will focus on the regional variations of wooden spoon carving in the area of Belarus, a country near Estonia, which were nearly lost during the Soviet era of collective farms while Belarus was a state within the Soviet Union.

Estonia itself was under Soviet rule, in what was regarded internationally as an illegal occupation, from 1940 to 1991. Prior to that time, the country had declared independence in 1918; organizers of the International Woodworking Camp say that this year’s inaugural camp is dedicated to the centennial of the Republic of Estonia. The year also marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of Ants Viires, a prominent Estonian enthologist and cultural historian who played a key role in the preservation of Estonian folk woodworking.

Camp participants will witness a presentation about Ants Viires during an excursion to the Estonian National Museum, which will also feature a tour of the museum’s wooden objects. Afterward, they’ll visit a castle and Estonia’s largest arboretum, founded by Count von Berg, which includes species of trees from across Europe, Siberia, and North America, as well as Estonia.

Wood species commonly used in Estonia, Marit said, include pine for furniture. Birch, in addition to its use in woven satchels and containers, has had the bark used for construction, and the tar for decorating wooden items and in folk medicine. “Aspen is widely used for its durability: we have the aspen boats common among the other Finno-Ugric peoples,” she said. “Aspen is also used for bent and waterproof boxes as well as sieves.”

Another aspect of local culture that will be featured as part of the camp is smoke saunas: an introductory workshop on the first day will present sauna customs, and participants will make a birch sauna whisk.

“We invite you to discover what the camp has to offer and register as soon as possible,” Marit said.

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Ernie Conover: A quirk is a deep depression that separates a convex molding shape from other moldings, or more commonly, a flat surface. The quirk is generally the depth of the molding profile. Many molding plane catalogues of yore would list a particular shape as a “quirked” whatever. The most common is the quirked bead put as a decoration at the edge of a shelf or window casements. On the latter it was put on both sides of the inner corner of the casement, making a full round. This is an elegant treatment, creating a strong transition between the casing and the surrounding molding.

Chris Marshall: While quirks and beads can be cut by hand with molding planes, a number of router bits have quirks in their profiles, too. The quirked beading bit (orange in photo, below) is one my favorites for adding a bit of shadow line and shape to the bottom edges of apron boards on small tables.

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– Bob Crabb
Chester, New Hampshire

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– John Cusimano
Lansdale, Pennsylvania

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Both table tops have a 24- x 32-in. footprint to support a wide range of workpieces. The precision-machined, cast-iron table weighs 88 lbs., and it provides maximum rigidity and flatness for all routing applications. The lighter-weight MDF table is melamine-topped for smoothness and durability, but at a lower price.

JET’s milled aluminum router lift has above-the-table height and lock controls for convenient tool adjustments and changes. One turn of the dials raises or lowers the lift 2mm at a time. The lift’s sturdy, four-post screw design with chain drive keeps tolerances tight and rigid.

A micro-adjust fence assembly includes easy-to-read guide rails that allow users to dial-in the exact fence position they need, or to replicate this setting when necessary. There’s also a scale on top of the fence for locating stop blocks. Split fence facings make it possible to use the fence with various bit diameters, and an integrated dust port helps clear dust and chips at the source of the cut. You can customize the fence by adding optional flip stops and featherboards for pressing workpieces down against the table during use.

The heavy-duty, steel floor stand has an integrated mobile base and onboard accessory storage. A power switch attaches to the stand’s legs, allowing the operator to control the router without reaching under the table. A miter gauge also is included.

In addition to dust collection at the fence, JET also provides an enclosed dust box that surrounds the router. Its all-metal construction with air flow vents ensures maximum dust collection and containment, as well as durability. The dust box is equipped with a standard 4-in. port for connecting to a dust collector hose.

JET’s Router Table system with Cast-Iron Table Kit (model 737000CK) sells for $1,399.99. Or choose the MDF Table Kit (model 737000WK), which is priced at $1,099.99. The JET Router Table is covered by a 5-year warranty and the JET Red Assurance program, representing outstanding service and technical support.

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“Rob, these days it’s the kids who are dressing as you describe. I see more black socks and sandals on teenagers, along with pajama shorts, than you can shake a walking stick at. They look like they ought to be in Florida shuffling along the boardwalk or something. And, yes, my wife likes ‘primitive’ and ‘distressed’ furniture, too. I tell her I’ll make her something beautiful out of gorgeous wood, then sand it, finish it, buff it out, chain it behind my truck and drag it a mile or two, then give it to her. That way we’ll both be happy!” – Tom Conlin

“I’m with you on this one, Rob. In my opinion, furniture is supposed to look like furniture. Good wood, matching grain, good-looking finish. I’ll use the landfill-destined wood to make shelving for the workshop and plant stands, etc.” – Robert Crowder

“I spend a lot of time massaging my wood with planes and sanders, I agree with you completely. I saw a dining table at our local home show this last weekend that was made (somehow) with tree bark as the tabletop. I couldn’t even conceive of how you would use it.” – Dale Nargang

“I have to agree with you, Rob. It amazes me that people want furniture that looks worse than old worn items that I’ve either thrown out or broke up and burned in the fireplace.” – Robert Hoffman

“All I can do is shake my head as I walk through furniture stores and look at what they are selling. I can’t tell if this is what customers truly want or if ‘distressed’ is just a way for manufacturers to hide the fact they can’t find the craftsmen needed to make quality furniture.  I’m not the greatest at making fine furniture, but I certainly wouldn’t want my name on any of that junk.” – Mike Sztukowski

“I agree with you fully. Hopefully this rustic trend will end soon. I can’t believe some of the prices I see for rotten wood — and I don’t mean
spalted. What bothers me the most is that a lot of space at the hardwood dealers I frequent is now being taken up with the stuff. They have stopped carrying some of their hardwood, especially high-end figured wood, and stocked both real and fake ‘barn wood.’ It’s all over the place.” – Don Bullock

While others showed more of an appreciation for either the rustic look, or the concept of re-using wood in general. – Editor

“I’ve been using weathered wood off an old smokehouse to build bluebird houses.  They seem to find it very chic.” – Andy Mahler

“I take severe umbrage to your comments on used wood. I have been building canoes and kayaks for the last nine years using only used, discarded (think dumpster diving here), reclaimed or tree trimming wood. My boats are not only visually appealing but are quite seaworthy as well. This, my most recent boat, is built from an old fence and cedar trim removed from an old cabin that was being remodeled. The seats are made from a discarded butcher block countertop and seat belts removed from junked cars. The thwarts, gunwales, portage yolk and breasthooks will be made from downed elm, oak, ash maple and walnut trees. The portage pads are made from discarded plywood and junked automobile seating foam and leather.” – Bill G

“I like creating fine wood pieces and have built many over the years. I have built over 1,000 boxes and recently started creating my own rustic textures. Sometimes we just need a change of pace to keep things in perspective and keep the creative juices flowing. Surprisingly, these have been well received and have sold quite well at shows that I participate in. You never know what catches a person’s attention.” –
Greg Little

For some, the distinction keyed in on whether the wood was fake or genuine old wood. – Editor

“Well said, Rob.  I also think distressing wood to make it look old is a crime.  I have had the opportunity to take some genuine old wood (Iowa barn boards) and make some great projects.  I used a blend of black tea and iron oxide to “age” the edges that were milled. Hooray for authentic old things! Us included (I turned 50 this year).”- Rob Skow

“I agree on your comment, but keep quiet at least through the summer. I live two places, one of them being a lake cabin in southern Minnesota.  My father, back in the 1980s, bought enough barn wood to panel all the walls in garage and cabin.  I have removed just about all of it and am hoping to sell it to help pay for an addition that is in progress. So: shh!” – Patrick Ahern

And one reader reminded us that, in furniture styles as in clothing fashions, there’s hardly anything new under the sun. – Editor

“Nothing new in the world of wood! When I returned to the USA in 1973 from my seven-year furniture apprenticeship, I found that my contemporaries, who were living in communes and living life as hippies, were making and selling furniture made from barn wood, old pallets and other used and, in my eye, crappy wood. I was really pissed off! I’d spent seven years learning to make beautiful furniture using the finest materials available. Hardware that was made for each piece and my work was often covered in beautiful veneers and marquetry. I had trouble finding galleries that would show my work! They said they couldn’t sell my work and instead were handling the crap furniture my untrained contemporaries were literally pounding out!

“Well, 46 years later I’ve had a great career, made and sold work to clients all over the country. Got past the groovy 1970s, the power 1980s, the me decade of the 90s. I’m glad I made the decision to be a furniture designer/maker who has always made every piece of the finest materials possible. I’ve avoided commissions for live edge pieces and for many jobs that just didn’t fit my view of fine furniture.

“It is really true that if you live long enough, everything comes around, then comes around again. So it is with all this crappy-looking mismatched used lumber furniture. Just like the tie-dyed T-shirts and bell-bottomed jeans from the 60s and 70s that we all made ourselves. They’re back, only you buy them at your local department store and it’s the in style! Now they’re selling ‘fine furniture’ made of rough, mismatched and, in my eye, poorly finished used lumber and it’s the in style!

“If you spend time studying furniture history, you find cycle after cycle, and what’s old becomes new again. I just smile knowing that somewhere down the road. styles will change yet again and today’s makers working in crappy material will evolve into makers working in more refined styles, whatever they may be! The common thread is the human need to express creativity. I’m just glad folks are still making and using their hands, eyes and brains!” – Clint Struthers

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The cooler cart features an insulated cooler box that is lined with aluminum, so it can get wet and is easy to clean. The interior of the cooler is sealed, so that it will not leak. It also has a drain that makes it easy to empty when the ice has melted. Click here to download the complete project plans, including a material list and how to photos.

VIDEO: Check out new Gorilla Glue Products and see how this cooler cart was built.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE PLANS.

How to Build this Backyard Cooler Cart

Make the Legs and Side Panels

1. Cut the eight long and short leg pieces to length. See Material List on next page.

2. Apply a bead of glue to one long edge of each end leg, and then clamp each leg to a mating front or back leg. Drive 1-1/2″ finish nails through the front or back legs to secure the joint.

3. Cut the front, back and end panel boards to length. Apply a bead of glue to each edge and clamp the boards that make each panel (photo 1).

4. Position the tops of the panels flush with the top of the legs and attach the panels to the legs with 1-1/4″ exterior-rated screws. Predrill 1/8″ pilot holes to prevent splitting the boards near the edges or ends. We chose to use finish washers to add a decorative element, but you could also countersink each screw (photo 2).

5. Cut the bottom supports to length and attach them5. Cut the bottom supports to length and attach them to the bottom of the panels with 2″ screws.

6. Cut the axle support blocks to length and attach them to the inside face of the front and back short legs. These blocks are flush with the bottoms of the legs.

7. Bore a 5/8″-dia. hole through the front and back legs and axle support blocks. The center of these holes is located 1-1/2″ up from the bottom of the leg.

8. Cut the axle to length with a hack saw.

9. Insert the axle through the axle holes. Place one flat washer over each end of the axle. Place the one wheel on each end of the axle. Then secure each wheel with a 1/2″ push nut. Use a hammer to pat the push nut on the axle.

Insulate the Cooler Box

Note: The foam insulation and sheet aluminum measurements that are listed on the Material List are based on using 7/8″-thick cedar boards. If the thickness of the lumber you are using is different, then you must measure and cut the insulation and aluminum pieces to fit your cooler box dimensions.

1. Cut the rigid foam insulation pieces to size with a retractable blade knife and straightedge.

2. Cut the sheet aluminum using a circular saw. The safest and easiest way to make these cuts is to sandwich the aluminum sheets between two pieces of plywood. Use a standard universal-use circular saw blade to make the cuts (photo 3).

3. Evenly space the bottom slats on the bottom sup-ports. Secure each slat with a couple of 1-1/4″ screws.

4. Place the bottom piece of insulation on top of the slats. Then apply construction adhesive to the back of the bottom aluminum sheet. This piece of aluminum is not cut to cover the entire piece of insulation because the front, back and end insulation will cover its edges. Center the bottom aluminum sheet on top of the bottom insulation and press to ensure complete contact (photo 4).

5. Install the front and back insulation against the front and back panels. Similar to the bottom aluminum sheet, the front and back sheets of aluminum were not cut to cover the entire piece of insulation because the edges will be covered by the end insulation pieces. Apply construction adhesive to the back of the aluminum sheets; center them over the insulation and press into place.the edges will be covered by the end insulation pieces. Apply construction adhesive to the back of the aluminum sheets; center them over the insulation and press into place.

6. Install the end insulation pieces and attach the end aluminum sheets. These two pieces must be cut to fit exactly between the front and back of the cooler box.

7. The drain spout is made from three common plumb-ing fittings; a 1/2″ galvanized coupling, a 1/2″-dia. x 3-1/2″-long galvanized threaded nipple, and a1/2″ sillcock valve. You must bore a 7/8″-dia. hole through the side of the cooler box to install this drain spout. Drill a small (1/8- to 1/4″ diameter) starter hole through the aluminum sheet on the wheel end of the cooler box. Locate this hole approximately 3/4″ up from the bottom of the cooler box. Next, drill a 7/8″ hole through the aluminum sheet, foam insulation and end panel. Drill carefully through the aluminum to minimize tearing the sheet. Wrap both ends of the threaded nipple with Teflon plumber’s tape. Thread the coupling on one end of the nipple. Then slide the nipple through the hole in the cooler box. On the outside of the box, thread the valve onto the other end of the nipple (photo 5).

8. Seal the interior of the cooler by applying a heavy bead of clear silicone sealant over all interior corner seams and around the drain coupling (photo 6).

Make the Top Cap and Handle

1. Cut the top cap parts to length. The top cap should overlap the inside edge of the cooler box by 1/4″ on all sides.

2. Attach the top caps to the front, back and end panels with 2″ screws. Be careful to center the screws on the edges of the front, back and end panels.

3. Cut the handles to length.

4. Bore 7/8″-dia. x 3/8″-deep holes in the handle sup-ports that will capture the handle. Use a 7/8″ Forstner bit to bore these holes.

5. Soften the sharp corners of the handle supports by mitering the corners of the handle end of the handle supports.

6. Fit the ends of the handle in the 7/8″ hole in each handle support to capture the handle. Then attach the handle supports to the front and back panels with 2″ screws.

Make the Lid

1. Cut the lid boards to length.

2. Apply a bead of glue to each edge and clamp the boards to make the lid panel.

3. Cut the lid bracing parts to length. These boards will reinforce the lid and frame the lid insulation.

4. Center the lid bracing on the underside of the lid panel and attach the lid bracing with 1-1/4″ screws.

5. Cut the piece of 3/4″-thick rigid insulation to size for the lid.

6. Cut the lid aluminum to size.

7. Secure the lid insulation and aluminum sheet to the underside of the lid with construction adhesive.

8. Cut the piano hinge to a length of 20-1/2″ long with a hacksaw. When marking the hinge, measure out from the center of the hinge to create symmetrical ends.

9. Center the lid over the cooler box opening and attach the hinge to the lid and back top cap with the screws that are provided with the hinge.

10. Attach the handle.

Finishing

You may apply any exterior-rated finish that you prefer. We chose to leave our project unfinished so that it will gray to a weathered patina over time.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE PLANS

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